@JackLAXXX I would just get an A2 charging handle for like 10 bucks, those strike industries one tend to snap. Also consider that you will need a barrel nut wrench and torque wrench. But overall looks like a decent parts list

Also is the barrel and handguard aero, or something that store is claiming as their own?

I'm a fan of BCM gunfighter CHs and Radian Raptor CHs

This arrived today, yeah buddy! Gonna mount it on a Nerf N-Strike Vulcan EBF-25 Dart Blaster .

Oh nice. I lke Vortex

My BCM and Aero build is getting pricy... My only concern about your .223 wylde barrel is that it's a 1/8 twist. Would probably be better off with a 18-20" if I had to guess.

> Oh nice. I lke Vortex
@Sparrow It is my second optic from them, the first being a red dot.

@[VA] JediComms My favorite from vortex is easily the spitfire 3x prism. Clean, reliable, accurate, and easy to zero.

> My BCM and Aero build is getting pricy... My only concern about your .223 wylde barrel is that it's a 1/8 twist. Would probably be better off with a 18-20" if I had to guess.
@Soulraiser what? 🤨

I’m with Crye.

Barrel length and twist do not inherently correspond. Barrel length does not effect twist rate or make it work much better.

My 16” barrel is a 1:7, meaning it will stabilize heavier bullets better.

1:7 is better for heavier bullets in general? The higher twist rate is for lighter weight?

higher twist rates are better for heavier bullets. 1:7 is really kinda iffy with 55gr bullets but works fine with 62. 1:8 twist works well with just about anything you throw in an AR though

really the only reason not to have a 1:8 twist barrel is if you're using some crazy heavy ammo, like higher than 77gr

I have a 1:7 I'm but I'm running 62, havent shot it yet tho so we'll see

I thought 1:7 was the happy medium. Or was that 1:8?

1:8 is the happy medium

https://www.everydaymarksman.co/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/224-Stabilization.png

Guess I gotta run some chonk rounds lol

> @[VA] JediComms My favorite from vortex is easily the spitfire 3x prism. Clean, reliable, accurate, and easy to zero.
@Soulraiser I've been running a StrikeFire II on my 556 for a few years and haven't regretted that purchase.

Any tips for painting a rifle? Multicam style
Paint recommendation?

You should be running heavier rounds for defense anyway. Stuff like Hornady 75gr open tip match / boat tail hollow point. Its fragmentation is absolutely devastating

Hmmm Well, I may be mistaken indeed then. I'm still going to stick with my 1/7 QPQ aero barrel tho'

I run gold dots for defensive purposes, and 262 equivalent for offensive purposes

What do those decimals represent? MOA?

No they’re twist speed. Which literally none of use need to worry about unless you’re actually shooting well past 1000

Cali had another freedom week and stocked up on greentips

@Crye_Salesman No I mean where the rows meet. 1.8 2.8 etc. It says ideal is 1.5-2.0

green tip is pretty trash, though it's still about the cheapest barrier blind ammo you can get your hands on

tldr, all penetration, no fragmentation

Is green tip supposed to be AP?

nope

It's supposed to penetrate soft materials such as flesh and drywall slightly better than regular 55gr rounds

it will not penetrate any armor that regular 55gr won't too

Ah, ok.

HMMMMNNNNNN @Bogs_Bunny I don’t actually know?

Actually that couldn't be MOA. Cause under 1.0 is "bad"

Yeah green tip isn’t ap. Even M855A1 isn’t *actually* AP in the traditional sense, but it should penetrate M193 rated armor

That’s also just not how MOA works

by giving it a steel tip, they made it penetrate through body tissue better to more reliably meet penetration requirements and punch through stuff like car windows. However, by doing that, it naturally keeps it from fragmenting as well, but fragmentation is where 5.56 gets the majority of its lethality. Stuff like 75gr rounds fragment like crazy, doing a devastating amount of damage when they hit.