Here's what it looks like now, before doing anything.

I also just noticed what looks like a burned area on the black.

Okay I'm sorry I was thinking you were going from a 3 wire to a 4-wire cord or 4-wire to 3-wire cord. You were switching one 3-wire cord to a different 3-wire cord is that correct?

No, I had a 4 on there, and changed to a 3.

Okay the cord you have on is connected properly I did see a burn matk on one of the terminals. It's possible that you shorted out one half of your two pole breaker when you did that go to the dryer breaker in the panel turn it off and turn it back on one half of that breaker may have tripped internally when you turn it off and turn it back on it resets it do that and then run the dryer see if it gets hot if it doesn't you may have to test voltage. You can test for the 220v at the dryer receptacle and if you don't have it through the problem could lie in the breaker try resetting it first

What's happening is the dryer is trying to dry on half of the voltage which tells me that one half of the breaker is not operating

They're connected

Yes that is called a 2 pole breaker it has two Hots. One half of that breaker could have went out if you touched any of the terminals together turn it off and then turn it right back on. If you have a way to test the voltage at the outlet try to test the two like slots and see if you have 220 Volt across them

I saw a burn mark on one of the wire terminals so I'm thinking maybe you might have bumped the wires together

Ok, so now it's just a matter of running it and seeing if it works better? Did I mess up the cable by bumping them?

I have no equipment to test it.

I understand okay when you accidentally touch them together you may have damaged one half of that breaker so it's only getting 110 volts instead of 220 volts. When you turned it off and turned it back on you may have reset it internally. Turn the dryer on and run it and see if it gets hot like it normally should if it does not then you were going to have to find a voltage tester and test the breaker and see if it needs to be replaced

To test the breaker you would take the panel off turn the breaker on and put the two test leads where the two wires on the breaker are located and see if it gives you 210 or 220 volts approximately. If not the breaker would have to be replaced. Is there anything else in your house that is not working properly is there any areas in your house that do not have power other than the dryer acting up? It's possible that you could have damaged more than one breaker. If you're not having trouble with anything else than just concentrate on the dryer

No problems elsewhere. For what it's worth, the prior owner was an old electrician and I think he did some work on the place, running g electric out to the barn and workshop.

I'll run a load and report back.

Okay great if it's still acting up you're going to have to find a voltage tester a Tester Lite rated at 240-volt woodwork you can probably get one for about 10 bucks. If you have to replace that breaker it is either a GE or an ite style plug-in breaker you can get it for about $9 at Home Depot and I can talk u through changing it if you need to

Somewhere on the panel or the panel cover it will tell you if it's a GE or an ite or Westinghouse Etc

Great, thanks again.

One last thing if you do have to have a tester if you get one from Lowe's or Home Depot their policy is to take back anything in the original package by it bring it home use it put it back in the package and return it

Cool. And I just remembered something that happened when I installed the cable. I, stupidly, plugged it in before connecting it just to make sure it would go in. The other, now live, end touched the metallic exhaust hose and there was a spark. I'm guessing that may have tripped the breaker. Hopefully I didn't do any further damage.

Hope not. 220volt is baad news. Be careful

@Deleted User That seemed to do the trick. Thanks!

No problem man anytime that's what we're here for. And for the record I do work on some appliances so if you have trouble with other things just give me a holler maybe I can help

Hey guys, just got my membership approved yesterday. I work as a specialist for my local dept of water and sewer. Mostly pumps and motors, but I also do some controls work and occasionally work on generators. I deal with anything from 12v up to 480v. I'll be glad to help or contribute any way I can, just give me a shout.

👌

Great walk through @Deleted User

☝🏻

https://www.gearbest.com/other-tools/pp_216958.html?wid=3

@Deleted User @Lebens just curious, do you guys use a wall fish kit to fish wires down a wall? Like glowrods, or the wire fish kit, I don't know what they are called, or something like the python kits with the magnets? Or do you just drop the wire and manually fish it out?

I use glow rods, magnets and fishing drill bits

If I'm in an attic trying to fish down a wall I will measure out and find my location up top. I will drill two or three 1in sized holes with a paddle bit. I'll stick my flashlight over one of the holes that way I can use the other two to look down and fish wires. If you're in an attic you can you can just stick the wire down the wall it's easiest. You don't have to get the fish tape reel or glow rods out of the truck to do the job. A fish tape can be used in walls or in conduit to pull wire through metal tubing. I was trained commercial so I have used a fish tape to fish just about everything. You have to be careful with them around live Parts as they can short things out and kill you or cause an explosion

Thats why you always need a non conductive fish tape also

Yes sir I have a nylon fish tape that I use but it is very short so I use it when I'm around the panels

It,s kind of crazy because in a residential setting the ground wires are bare. I always thought it was crazy that you had all these live parts and then your ground conductors were always bare

Right on, I have both a fish tape and glowrods. I always preferred the glow rod. Coaxial cable is so easy to fish though.
@Deleted User that is crazy. Any reason it's bare?

I would say probably cost. They used to pull bare neutrals in conduit years ago but they discovered if someone broke a wire between a load and the panel the conduit would become energized as the neutral path to ground. That's why bare wire is not used in conduit anymore. Romex and certain grounding situations where you are burying a wire for grounding purposes for let's say service there are exceptions that allow you to use the bare copper

In regards to fishing wires in conduit. They make a vacuum system called a vacuum fish tape that uses little sponges with a wire connected to them that you hook a nylon string to and vacuum that device called a mouse through the conduit. It is used for long runs. It works good in PVC pipe because it is glued but if the pipe has been in the ground and has condensation water built up in it sometimes it will slow it down. You can use it in long runs of EMT which is the metal tubing but you have to have what they call compression fittings coupling the pipe together

I've never had a problem sucking rats in screw type connected EMT

@Deleted User wow, that's cool. I learned something today. I didn't know about that vacuum thing. Thanks bro