Brenten.Ryan-AZ (Discord ID: 338695149813235713), page 1
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FVTV get a 608 HVAC certification. It's fairly cheap and easy and it leads to a plethora of job opportunities
What's up gentlemen, I'll be picking up from the last goy to help maintain our Mechanic portion of this server.
That is quite a concern brother, definitely needs attention.
With something that in depth, it is quite difficult to go in an absolute direction without getting my hands on it. I'm going to ask a few generic questions and I'll send you in more of a focused direction.
1. How many miles are on the truck?
2. Where do you live and most frequently travel?
3. Have you made any modifications to your driveline, suspension or tires (up or down from OEM tire sizes)
There is a plethora of areas for a tech to look at while addressing vibration related concerns. Some of them listed could be:
Drive line angles modified (creates vibrations) when we lift our trucks
Bigger tires ( more weight means faster deterioration of shock absorbers and subsequently ending with vibration concerns)
Tires not balanced correctly
Tomorrow I can get on ALLDATA and check if Ford has any Technical Service Bulletins related to the cause but in the end I highly recommend that you go to a Ford dealership and have a tech take a test drive with you with some Chassis Ears hooked up around the truck.
If you don't trust Ford or another mechanic to accurately diagnose your truck, you can order those Chassis ears and diagnose yourself with the guidance from someone like myself (or myself) as well.
I recommend a dealer because if the concern comes back, it's on then to fix the original issue. (Comebacks are free for you and a strong deterrent for techs to get the job done right)
Generally speaking with newer cars and trucks (2006 and newer) engine and transmission related concerns will often pop up as a DTC and illuminate your check engine light.
Thanks brother, I appreciate the praise. Keep me coming, we're not know all's and sometimes divers ideas come to be quite beneficial.
@Deleted User If you want, tomorrow I can send you a step by step diagnostic procedure from our ALLDATA or Mitchell software (one that techs will follow) to help aid in understanding / diagnosing your concern.
Not me lol
@Deleted User I will send a link to the chassis Ears if things downer pan out with his brother. 👍
No problem brother, that is exactly right. You can go with a cheaper on that is wired but I'm not fond of exposed wires while driving, lol.
A diag at a dealership will normally run you 1-1 1/2 hours.
Visually inspect your U-Joints for free play and your yoke at the rear diff as well.
Keep us updated
It sucks that you have that issue, but it is a great question man.
Goys for the win
@JesseJames do you live near him to help out with it? If so, that's great.
I grabbed a set a while ago for a couple side jobs I was doing around the neighborhood. I don't use them all too often but they prove their worth when the opportunity arises. I'm definitely not experienced enough to feel it out with my asscheeks haha
@JesseJames you may have been out for 4 years but your 8 years in the field trumps my less than a year with Freightliner haha
I'm still finishing my program with UTI and starting my qual program with Cummins.
I'm much more proficient with body electrical and drivability than this.
Hey man, I thought tires were a bitch to deal with in class 8's but fuck that noise.. haha kudos to you for dealing with those. 👍
I'll be heading to Anchorage for a field service position on Cummins power generation sideonce I'm done with my training.
Plenty of money to be made on heavy equipment side
What I thought was big
Ah, I didn't know that. Haha
@Deleted User what engine do you have in that Ford?
Thanks, looking for related TSB's now.
No present TSB's for that specific concern brother.
Yours is a one piece drive shaft, correct?
have the other gentleman look at it when you both meet, if he can't solve it grab those Chassis ears and I'll walk you through vibration orders to get it under wraps.
@Fvtvresoldier JohnStrasser#3954 identify the wires that lead to an ignition source and then to the starter. I am not too versed with motorcycles but testing power flow is the same for all DC circuits. What kind of bike and what year is it? For a generic example I'll give you some pointers.
Do an available voltage test through all points of that circuit, to include the ground.
Go from battery positive to your starter switch. Back probe into your connector for that switch and make sure you have source voltage. On output of that, it should lead into a relay control circuit. (Relays use low current to control high current). If you engage that switch you should have a source voltage going into the control side and mV on the ground side of that control side. on the controlled end of that relay you should have source voltage on the input end and mV on the output end while the circuit is disengaged.
Depressing the switch (if the control side of the circuit is working properly) should allow source voltage to flow through it to the starter.
A rule of thumb for power flow: If you don't have voltage what you should, you have an open in the circuit. If you have less voltage than you should, you have high resistance. If you have voltage where you shouldn't then you have an open on the ground side of that circuit.
This excludes short to grounds or a short to power.
This should be of some help in electrical diagnosis for everyone here.
@JohnStrasser what are the values?
those numbers tell the tale of what is going on in the circuit
@Deleted User Whew, a carb related question
Honestly the only carb I’ve had my hands on was on a 07 CR125R
Honestly I don’t remember any gaskets on her, changing jet settings was 2 simple screws on the top as the throttle cable enters the carb body, and I don’t remember any gasket that seated there.
@Honneur et Patrie#8729 get a scanner to pull that code to begin with. It’s a good starting point to see what your ECM / PCM is saying (a general area of concern)
As much as I don’t care for uh oh zones (Autozone) or O’Reilly’s auto stores they can pull the code for you for free.
If you get that code, I (or any other tech here) can help go from there.
One of the obvious tell tale signs of a blown head gasket is oil in the coolant, milky oil (coolant in oil), and white smoke from your exhaust.
Unfortunately it won’t let me open the file
If your comfortable with it, you can send it to me via email or Facebook.
@Deleted User hey there brother, did you resolve the issue with your truck?
Loaded did you recently get new wheels, or do any service on your brakes recently?
Yea concerning the weird smell and excessive heat, I would pull those hub assemblies off and inspect them for pivoting and scortching. If there are any signs of either of those two replace both sides of the vehicle’s hubs.
For your spongy brakes check your fluid and bleed the air out of them if you are suspecting that there is air in the line. Check your lines and fittings for leaks as well.
@loadedbrush#4901 any luck so far bud?
Oh yea, that will be a bit of work. Lol
What kind of vehicle is it?
What year is the truck? ‘99 and later?
If so, there were only 4 threads so they popped out every so often.
Ford has a special tap and dye kit specifically for that but it’s 600$ and generic tap kits won’t work.
@RevStench it is a common issue I have heard of with the 4.2 and 4.6’s
It would probably be cheaper and less time consuming to have the dealership take care it.
The heads have to come off the the kit in my opinion is too fucking expensive to have a one or 2 time use out of it.
*and the kit
@RevStench but take it to an actual Ford dealership
Good shit man, glad to help with the choice.
Keep us updated with her man
What’s up bud
Was it running well before you changed the plugs?
I’m not too versed with motorcycles but the same foundation of drivability applies.
It’s either fuel, air or spark. Did you go with OEM plugs?
It is possible, I’d back track every step that you took while changing spark plugs and make sure everything is installed correctly. You can take a hand held propane tank to check for intake leaks (lean condition) and see it it changes idle at all
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