Does anyone still recap tires? or is that a thing of the past?

probably showing my age with that question ahah

More or less a thing of the past.

I should probably just get new tires at this point

@Yuma County What is the beading issue all about?

the bead is where the tire meets the wheel and forms a seal to keep the air pressure in more or less.

Older tires have a bit of an issue holding a bead when they age.

I'll have to mention that when I go to my mechanic. Hopefully they can give me a few options. Thanks again

Some of your alloy rims may have a little oxidation that forms around the seal which requires a little cleaning off whenever they break the tire down. I've seen a couple of rims that just would not hold air because of the pitting caused by this

I have an overheating problem with my 2005 Honda Civic. I replaced the thermostat, replaced the coolant, and had an oil change but I am still overheating when I idle for a minute or two, usually after driving 30 miles or so. When I turn on the heater to cool my engine off it doesn't blow out any hot air which leads me to think it could be my water pump. Any suggestions?

If the heater core is not producing any heat it kind of points to a circulation issue. You may want to go back and check that thermostat make sure it's in right side up and not in a bind sometimes you could get a defective one from the store. You may want to check the thermostat and or electric fans that cool the radiator make sure they are cycling off and on

The thermostat and fan seems just fine

Have you checked your water pump in the last day? @Honneur et Patrie

I'm not very experienced when it comes to working on cars, but do any of you goys know how difficult it would be to change out a purge valve in an evap system?

What make and model?

It's an 07 VW Beetle.

I know VW can be a pain to work on, especially for someone like me who is very inexperienced haha

@Atten - TX#2465 P0455 code? It's cake. Your purge valve is only held on by 2 clamps. You have to remove the shield/cover that covers your engine and it's right on top, you can't miss it. The only tool you'll need is the screwdriver to disconnect the air intake hose from that shield/cover.

You can try and clean the old one and see if that gets rid of the light.

save yourself a whole 20 bucks ahah

Yep, that's the code. I appreciate the advice, I'll give it a look here soon. Apparently the issue is the valve isn't closing so I might just replace it. Thanks a lot, brother!

Typically you'll know they've gone bad if you begin to smell gas. Best of luck!

@here the next blurb will probably come up 4pm-5:30pm MST, I'm trying to avoid the peak heat of today.

@Atten - TX 1.8T?

It's super easy, but when you take off the old one, tap it on a white piece of paper and see if any little black chunks come out. If they do, it's your charcoal canister falling apart internally and clogging the valve, and a new valve will get clogged before too long. The charcoal canister is behind the right rear wheel, it's easy enough to replace but the wheel has to come off

Well before I got to that I needed to replace my two headlight bulbs. After doing that, neither the low beams or high beams work. I'm not sure what's causing it, as I only replaced the two low beam bulbs.

Fuse maybe...

Check your fuses. That's where a good portion of electrical issues lie.

Were the new bulbs OEM?

The beetle headlights are a bitch. Does your headlight assembly have a connector on the back that you had to detach after you pulled the assembly out? Or does it just seat into the connector at the back when you lock the headlight in place? Try pushing on the headlight with the ignition and lights on, I bet the low beam will come on. It's hard to get them to seat correctly and lock in place

@Atten - TX

I've checked the fuses and they seem to be alright, I'll have to take a closer look after work. The assembly just has the connector at the back that pushes back in, so I'll also try giving them a good push again to see if that helps.

There should be a very audible click when they're locked in fully. Make sure you start with the little metal rod in the fully unlocked position, otherwise you can break the plastic headlight bucket

I'm glad you said something, I gave it a push and it came on for a second but didn't stay in place. I didn't even remember to unlock that rod again.

But I'm thinking that should be it, thanks a lot to all of you!

It's a dumb design.

Seriously, I've never had so much trouble with something as simple as a low beam bulb change. Now on to changing the purge valve and the connectors for my turn signals...

@Atten - TX#2465 make sure when you're done to have everything well insulated, even if you have to wrap it in electrical tape like a nig. I blew a fuse on my bike because I didn't wrap a connection and then washed my bike.

What does it mean if my car just loses power in it's accelerator? It does thing where it'll drive fine, then slowly lose power and eventually I'll have no power at all in the accelerator, but the vehicles interior lighting is all still on. If I turn the whole car off and back on it'll very temporarily fix the issue (for like 2 minutes). If I downshift I get a little bit more output from the engine but it tapers off (it has a lot of initial output, then none very quickly).

It's only ever happened 2x

There's so many electrical things on these cars nowadays it's going to be hard to track down. When it has no power if you put it in neutral and Deuce the gas and see if the engine still runs smoothly if it does it could be something in the transmission. The Transmissions are electronically controlled. You may have to try a little plane with it when it happens put it in neutral see if the engine run smoothly if not it's in the ignition system possibly

One thing you can do is take it to your local auto parts place and ask them to pull the codes on it. If your check engine light pops on while you're driving it shows that there is a problem and they can pull the codes and tell you if there are any issues

Cool, I guess I'll just play Russian roulette with it until I can find a mechanic who knows what's wrong with it. Both of the mechanics I've been to so far have don't have any leads because it isn't chronically recurring

Well if your check engine light is on they can pull the Colts. If not like I said when you are driving it and it happens try to see if it's in the actual motor or just that the car won't pull itself. The actual mechanic on this channel could probably give you a little more information. He's pretty good at his job

!

@Deleted User could you explain the issue a bit further? I know you mentioned earlier in another server you were having a transmission leak. If it's a power delivery issue on top of your transmission leak, that's a good place to focus your attention.

It sounds like a fuel delivery issue to be completely honest. If it's happened only twice, it's definitely something to keep your eye on.

Basically I'll be driving and lose power on the accelerator. There will be no output at all. If I stop the car and restart it I can get up to like 3rd, maybe 4th gear but lose power again with 5 minutes. It sorts itself out within a couple of hours

Your accelerator wouldn't happen to go limp when this happened, right?

I really want to say that is has something to do with your car's fuel delivery system.

I would start with your injectors and start working your way back to the fuel filter. If it throws a code, getting that checked would help immensely.

Im not really sure what you mean by limp, it becomes sort of soft almost, but soft in the sense that the engine is unresponsive

but it doesnt go limp, I have to apply a normal amount of pressure to push it down

@Yuma County it might have a code but theres no light, it could be fuel delivery, but I buy highest octane. Not to say it isnt fuel delivery but doesnt that minimize the chance that you get a shitty batch>

The highest grade possible just means you'll have a lower chance of misfiring in the simplest sense. Check to see if it's throwing a code, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue for sure. It could be a couple things really, bad injectors, or your wiring system between your accelerator.

Between your accelerator and engine.

Gotcha, thanks for the help! @Yuma County

@Deleted User if it happens again, let us know. 👍🏻

Of course

@Deleted User does the engine die (0 rpm) or just lose power while running still?

Never checked, that's a very good question

If it happens again, watch the rpm and see if it dies, if it falls up and down erratically, or if it remains steady while there's no power

I would guess fuel pump, but without knowing more or scanning the ecm it's hard to say. Could be a MAF sensor too

(Or brake fluid)

Just had the brakes bled and fluid replaced mid last month If that makes any difference

Happened both before and after that was done

@Deleted User could be your alternator starting to fail or a bad fuseable link.

I would say get a voltameter and test your alternator cables both to the starter and battery. If they are good take your alternator to advanced auto parts and have them test it. They may be able to do it with it on the car. Either way it's free. Start with the the obvious and free stuff. Also have them read your codes while you're there.

I was memeing about the brake fluid, sorry.

Doubt it's an alternator, if the battery voltage dropped enough to kill the engine it wouldn't start up again minutes later. Also you would see a battery light probably. What year is your car? We're talking about the mini, right?

@Deleted User

I've had it happen. Just saying. Either way he needs to get his codes read at the very least. Like you recommended.

you're right about the battery light though so scratch that

Well, who knows what the parameters are for tripping the light or whether the circuit is working, I've seen bad alternators not set off the light. We can't really help without pulling the codes or doing some testing, unfortunately.

@Deleted User go get the damn ecm codes. Now I'm intrigued.

This should prove interesting if not entertaining. I know Mini's have their issues, I wonder how comical this one will be.

So just to add to tools needed for any garage. I think jack, jack stands, drain pan, oil filter wrench, 4 way lug wrench, spark plug sockets... that is a really good start to 90% of what most people will be doing on their car.

☝🏻 this too

So short update, the electrical system on the mini is completely fucked. The stereo/speaker module died on me and I Guess when They went to hook their computer up to the car it somehow fried the foot module so the car is messed up in all sorts of ways. Brake lights stuck on, headlights stuck on, turn signals don't work, driver side window is stuck down, locking system doesn't work

Runs fine though, had an oil leak repaired and it sounds much better now

They as in the mechanic I went to

It's still under warrantee (somehow) so I'm going to have a dealership fix it

I don't want to be the poor scrub who has to chase those electrical demons around a mini

Yeah my car has some sort of Phantom or something

It constantly fails catastrophically and either nothing or everything is ever wrong with it when I take it to the mechanic

A lot of these newer cars use common ground points for all of the computerized equipment. For a long time the Cadillacs had real issues with these. The grounds would become loose or corroded and basically causes chaos with the electrical system in a computer's. I'm not sure on your make of vehicle but it just goes to show how one little thing can cause everything to go Haywire

Hey I got an auto body question, figured best to post here. I got a few rust spots on the roof of my tuck. Was gonna: -Sand down with orbital sander/sandpaper -Clean and prime -Spot paint with autobody paint Does this sound good to any of you goys that know about paint jobs?

Sorry for the weird formatting was trying to make a bullet point list

Sounds like you got it.

Is anyone well versed in motorcycles?

@here ☝🏻

What about them?

Just got a kawasaki ninja 500 and had some questions about the brakes

What issues are you having

No issues yet, I just done even know how to tell if I should change the fluid and when it's time to change the brakes

You can use brake fluid testing strips to see if your fluid is still serviceable. Also, you can look at your brake pads, if they look to be getting thin or almost touching the rotor, its time to replace them.

If you feel pulsations when you apply the brakes, that's a sign its probably time for new rotors, and most likely pads.

Okay, I'll probably have more questions soon, I have changed the oil and the coolant already and I'm getting my motorcycle endorsement on Friday, I failed the damn written test twice:( I'm motorcycle dumb I guess haha

I still need to get mine, I need a bike so i have something thats gets better than 12mpg. Lol

That's really all I drive down here, my motorcycle