Its not usually motorcycle weather where im from back in WA so i never bothered. But here in the south its almost a year round option.

Yes exactly why I got one

my bike gets like 50mpg when I ride normally, 70 when i cruise at 70mph on the freeway.

@Yuma County#0597 hey bro just curious how's your CDL training going?

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/629508112/overview/

is this road legal?

or a good deal?

It's legal, as long as the lights work. You have to be able to clear a speed bump, all the lights and safety equipment has to be on the car and working. Nothing can be hanging off it.
If the frame isn't bent and that's just body damage, for the price it's a good deal.

Is there a topical anesthetic available over the counter?

@Deleted User It looks like there are a few, but from what I've seen a cream called "LMX" may be the strongest. It looks like it's available at Walmart, Walgreens, and CVS over the counter.

Thanks brother. I meant to post this in <#322712621503479809> lol but you've answered my question so no need to move it

@Deleted User concerning that wrecked car. If it is in your state an your purchasing it is one thing but typically if you purchase a car from out of state and it has to be brought into your state they will have to inspect it and all of the lights and turn signals Horn cetera will have to work in order for you to get a title on it in your state

Just wanted to thank @Deleted User for picking up the slack! haha

And just a note, most newer cars have their oil filter on top of the engine
And newer cars have an inner cylinder that is the filter with an exterior lid that you do not dispose of, just snaps onto the lid, very easy

So you're just changing out the filter element, then?

Yes

nice

The process is very simplistic and avoids an unnecessary mess from dripping oil

yeah, I like it. I haven't encountered that yet but it makes sense.

o-ring gets replaced as well, comes in the box

that just sits on the lid

http://www.acdelco.com/auto-parts/filters/professional-cartridge-oil-filter.html

@Deleted User Why not connect your neg cable to the dead neg terminal?

I was always taught it was safer to do it that way.

Supposedly there's a non-zero chance of a battery explosion if you connect directly to the terminal.

That will severely hamper your game

Ah ok gotcha

Yeah, setting a girl's car on fire is not a good ice-breaker.

When the lady asks you why you're not connecting to the terminal, just give her the Marlboro man look, a quick nod, and continue with what you're doing.

That brings your chances from ~85 up to 100%

It's also a good time to wink I hear.

"Why aren't you connecting to the terminal?" Wink. Start car. Game on.

Hmmm, see that's tricky

Keep in mind I've been married for 13 years so I'm way out of that frame of mind, but here's my perspective:

You can't go wrong either way, BUT

jump-starting a car puts you in the frame of a savior.

For that window of time, you're more than a man

You're resurrecting a dead machine and helping a lady in distress.

If you wink, you're revealing a human element

If you barely acknowledge her instead and act like nothing can disrupt your focus and attention on this "critical" task, you don't break that frame

But again, I've been married since Christ was a corporal so I could be rusty on this matter. 😃

I use my batteries from my power tools to jump cars. I have 2 pieces of copper wire I stick into the slots in the battery and attach the other ends to the terminals. Works the first time every time.

That's how you do it.

badass

The first time someone told me to do that I thought they were messing with me for a laugh. But when the engine turned over I was dumbfounded.

I never would have thought of it, but it makes sense!

Anyone know how to change a tire on a motorcycle

https://www.gearbest.com/other-tools/pp_216958.html?wid=3

Going back through and looking. @JohnStrasser you get your bike tire changed?

Probably gonna have someone do it for me. Labor is actually kind of cheap

Crap just seen this for some reason. If thats the case I don't blame you. But if you ever need help with it shoot me a pm.

@JohnStrasser you need stands for the bike, a valve core tool, something to break the bead (a big plastic chisel and hammer can work but there's a tool that attaches to the wheel and uses leverage which is much easier to use), a tire iron/spoon to lever the tire off and back on the wheel, soapy water, compressed air to seat the beads on the new tire, and a balancing stand. It's a couple hundred bucks investment for the tools so it won't pay itself off until you do a few sets. It's nice to not have to trust some guy you don't know with your life, though.

What's up gentlemen, I'll be picking up from the last goy to help maintain our Mechanic portion of this server.

I've got an unusual one for you. I have a 2011 F150 supercab. It has the half doors in the back with the interior door handles. When I'm driving as I approached 75 miles per hour and above there is a severe shimmy that develops right beneath the center console area and you can watch the passenger seat back vibrate like crazy and feel it throughout your body. It has new tires the front end is in perfect shape and it has nothing to do with the steering system. I have had my mechanic check it out and we are kind of up in the air as to what the problem is. I have found on the forums where many people have had this problem and have done everything from rebuilt Transmissions to replace drive shafts. I have read one or two posts where they had some success with the driveshafts but not everyone has had success with that. Ford acts like they don't know what you're talking about but I know it is a problem with many of these trucks including some of the 250's. Do you have any advice as to which direction to go with this

That is quite a concern brother, definitely needs attention.

With something that in depth, it is quite difficult to go in an absolute direction without getting my hands on it. I'm going to ask a few generic questions and I'll send you in more of a focused direction.

1. How many miles are on the truck?
2. Where do you live and most frequently travel?
3. Have you made any modifications to your driveline, suspension or tires (up or down from OEM tire sizes)

There is a plethora of areas for a tech to look at while addressing vibration related concerns. Some of them listed could be:

Drive line angles modified (creates vibrations) when we lift our trucks

Bigger tires ( more weight means faster deterioration of shock absorbers and subsequently ending with vibration concerns)

Tires not balanced correctly

Etc.

@Deleted User ^

Does the check engine light flash while it's happening?
And does it lose power as you're trying to accelerate?

150s get the "ford shudder". Could be misfiring on a cylinder, or a O2 sensor, spark plug wires or ECU

Something like a P0306 code

Tomorrow I can get on ALLDATA and check if Ford has any Technical Service Bulletins related to the cause but in the end I highly recommend that you go to a Ford dealership and have a tech take a test drive with you with some Chassis Ears hooked up around the truck.

If you don't trust Ford or another mechanic to accurately diagnose your truck, you can order those Chassis ears and diagnose yourself with the guidance from someone like myself (or myself) as well.

I recommend a dealer because if the concern comes back, it's on then to fix the original issue. (Comebacks are free for you and a strong deterrent for techs to get the job done right)

Generally speaking with newer cars and trucks (2006 and newer) engine and transmission related concerns will often pop up as a DTC and illuminate your check engine light.

@Brenten.Ryan-AZ it's awesome you're a mechanic. Our last mechanic was from AZ too.
I'm just throwing out ideas based on common problems.

@RevStench
Thanks brother, I appreciate the praise. Keep me coming, we're not know all's and sometimes divers ideas come to be quite beneficial.

@Deleted User If you want, tomorrow I can send you a step by step diagnostic procedure from our ALLDATA or Mitchell software (one that techs will follow) to help aid in understanding / diagnosing your concern.

'Em
Not me lol

The truck is Factory. It has approximately 149000 highway miles on it. I am the second owner and the original owner kept the truck in pristine condition. There are no leaks anywhere on the truck drive line which I think is pretty impressive given the mileage. I live in Louisville and most of my traveling is here in town. Most speeds on the highway are 75 to 80 typically. If you said water bottle on the dash it vibrates very very little. Nothing more than you would expect. But if you place the same water bottle on the center console it goes crazy hopping around in the container. I was thinking it had something to do with the length of his truck and driveshaft. It's a one piece driveshaft and I know some of the trucks came out with a two piece. The overall performance of the truck is excellent It's just that shaking will drive you nuts. The Crew Cabs do not seem to have the same issue. Yes it's a real stumper.

I am not familiar with the chassis ears but I will look it up to see what you were talking about. Yes I've been a little reluctant to go to the dealer just because they want to act like it's a problem unknown to them

Oh weird, forget what I said. I'll ask my brother today if he knows anything.
He works at Ford and those guys know most of the problems with these trucks because so many people own them.

Brother that would be awesome if I knew that I would have hit you up a while back LOL. Did you ever decide on whether or not you're going to pick up that white truck

I got it Tuesday. 2010 f150 haha

@Deleted User I will send a link to the chassis Ears if things downer pan out with his brother. 👍

https://www.jbtoolsales.com/steelman-97202-wireless-chassis-ear/

That's good makes a lot easier working out of a pickup. It was a clean-looking truck. on the chassis years I guess they pick up different vibrations and readings and send it back to the central unit and you can diagnose from there. $200 would probably be cheaper than three or four hours at dealer

Thank you Ryan

No problem brother, that is exactly right. You can go with a cheaper on that is wired but I'm not fond of exposed wires while driving, lol.

A diag at a dealership will normally run you 1-1 1/2 hours.

Visually inspect your U-Joints for free play and your yoke at the rear diff as well.

Keep us updated

Yes sir thanks to both of you goys!

It sucks that you have that issue, but it is a great question man.

Goys for the win

It's hard to diagnose something like this over the net. If @Brenten.Ryan-AZ can't find a tsb or anything on it I would be happy to take a ride in it with you and see what we came up with. One of the reasons I quit working on cars is because of having to diagnose shitty problems like this but with that said I do have plenty of experience doing it. My initial thoughts are driveline forsure but sometimes a quick test drive with the right person may reveal the issue or at least give a good starting point. Chassis ears are a great invention and makes noise diagnosis so much easier. Wish I owned a set. I was spoiled as a dealership tech and they where always a special tool that was provided.

@JesseJames do you live near him to help out with it? If so, that's great.

I grabbed a set a while ago for a couple side jobs I was doing around the neighborhood. I don't use them all too often but they prove their worth when the opportunity arises. I'm definitely not experienced enough to feel it out with my asscheeks haha

*my butt

Yes we where actually together last weekend ha would have been a good time to check it out. I haven't been a tech for 4 years now. I was a Nissan tech for 8 years and spent at least 6 of those years doing electrical engine drive ability noise diagnosis and repair.

Yes it's a crazy problem. So far it is not been anything but a nuisance. Like I said it doesn't really affect the way it drives it tracks trade steering wheel doesn't shimmy it's definitely situated right beneath the center console

@JesseJames yes maybe at the next meet up we'll take a ride in it

Sometimes you can have a problem of a messed up bushing that could be causing a vibration and/or noise. @Deleted User anytime man.

@JesseJames you may have been out for 4 years but your 8 years in the field trumps my less than a year with Freightliner haha

I'm still finishing my program with UTI and starting my qual program with Cummins.

I'm much more proficient with body electrical and drivability than this.

@Brenten.Ryan-AZ Hey at least your going into heavy trucks and diesel repair. 08 to 10 was hard on us automotive guys and it seemed like the diesel guys where impervious to the recession. I know work on heavy equipment. All I do know though is change tires on them. So no diagnosis or repairs just change the tire and go. Most of my days are spent driving my sterling boom truck all over the place.

Hey man, I thought tires were a bitch to deal with in class 8's but fuck that noise.. haha kudos to you for dealing with those. 👍

I'll be heading to Anchorage for a field service position on Cummins power generation sideonce I'm done with my training.

Plenty of money to be made on heavy equipment side

What I thought was big

@JesseJames Badass

@Brenten.Ryan-AZ ha I would rather change those pan tires over those semi truck tires any day. My truck does all the hard work. With semi tires you have to do them by hand. I have to do some semi tires here and there but mostly Otr

Otr-off the road

Ah, I didn't know that. Haha

The tires on the machine in the photo weigh roughly 3k to 4K each

Fixing the motorcycle, looks weird naked

What is that, a Sportster?

It's of Japanese origin forsure.

Sportster has a v twin design engine.

Mmmmmmm

@Deleted User alright negro, I'm going to guess misfiring at high speeds. Cylinder 6 is probably the one too, which would be from the front of the truck, bank 2 right side, number 2 cylinder which is the 2nd one from the front. Check the plug, if it's ok, look to see if any other are misfiring. If you don't see any abnormal build up it's still probably the number 6 cylinder ignition coil, '09 to 14 are notorious for it. The one I bought Tuesday had the same problem, except mine shook at around 45ish. I just swapped the plug and the tube, not the ignition coil. And that fixed mine.