And wtf is this

This CAN NOT possibly help in hot summer days

Plus again, why would I do all this?

That's because you use it with the A/C compressor (That's included in the total lmao)

Well, the situation is you bought a older car with none of these features.

Right

So, this is a defense of why you shouldn't buy a new car because of the features it has.

But I didnt?

Thats great

So you're going to seriously say "no way" "go ahead and make that list" and then turn around and use a "but y tho" arguement?

Ye sure

Your car must be a real pussywagon

i have no argument therefore i must ad hominem

I was proving a point that you should'nt buy a new car for the features when you can add features yourself for less than you think.

You ever thought about the quality of these parts youre DYI-ing?

Do you have a car?

Yes, I do lmao why are you arguing?

A part here will last as long as an OEM one if it's installed properly. If you just throw the shit together and expect it to last as long, you're responsible for the early failure. And if it breaks right away, most of the more expensive parts have a 30-day warranty.

And if you know anything about electronics, most of the time it either fails early or it fails after a very long time. That's just how it is.

Alright

Cheap old cars > new cars

Got it

dont buy new

buy used in good condition and you'll generally save money over the life of that car rather than spending 1000$ on creature comforts

my pickup has manual windows and no heated wheel or seats, just AC

but i bought it for the engine and because I need 4WD

The most economically smart thing to do is to buy a car off-lease, or as the books say, it's 2 years old and most of the depreciation is gone. I know we can agree buying an expensive car for the features is just stupid, though.

Yes

So question, what would a good starter car be?

Like when I'm old enough to get a learners permit and buy a car.

New is a fucking scam. The reason market value drops so drastically after it leaves the lot has nothing to do with it being driven, dealers drive them around the lot and they go for test drives all the time. It has to do with third party financing. No independant seller is going to offer you a loan to buy the vehicle from them.

If you buy a new car from a dealer you're wasting at least ten grand

on an artificial price hike

@Deleted User tbh, save up five grand and get whatever you want, just make sure that repair on it isn't retarded expensive, and look for decent mpg. Also, pay attention to how many miles the engine has on it, and look into what the lifespan of that engine is like. Last one I bought was a 2006 honda civic coupe for $3.7k with 120k miles on the engine, and those engines will typically make it to 300k miles. I didn't get a great price, but I got an okay price. They wanted $4k for it. Kelly Blue Book 'fair price' range is 3.5k-4.5k.

What he said. And, also, use the same calculation i suggested to Templar. Cars made from '90-'00 are designed to last about 130-150k, cars made from '00-'10 are designed to last about 150-180k, and *certain* models of cars (mainly japanese) are designed to last about 220k if they are made from '10-present. Some models in the late '00s to present are designed to last 10 years, as supposed to miles, because of designed obscelesence with materials and shitty mommy-sensors that can immobilize the car for innane shit. So, once you know *about* the mileage where the car should start dying, subtract its current mileage from that mileage, and divide by 15,000 (Or miles you drive a year if you plan on doing more or less than that, 15k is *average*), and that will be the amount of years you could reliably say how long the car will last. E.G. You buy a 2002 chevy cavalier with 130k miles (**P.S. : Chevy cavaliers are cheap and reliable, for the most part. They are not nice cars, cheap plastic interior, not allot of features, but they are very cheap to own. A good example of a first car.**) . Due to the known reliability of the Cavalier, you can say End-of-life is at 180k miles. There are examples with much higher mileages doing just fine, though so you can say you'll have a few years to save up for a car after that. 180k-130k == 50k miles. Let's say you're a student driver and you only really drive to school and back and maybe get groceries once a month, leaving you at 12k miles a year.

50 / 12 = 4 years and 2 months. So, reliably, you can say the car will get you up to the first year of college or so, and then you'll have to look into the state of the engine, seals, plastics, pressure / vacuum lines, etc and really consider what you need to replace to make it like 50k miles ago versus selling it and buying something else with lower mileage. Another good thing to do mathmatically: Calculate how many years you reliably got with the car, and divide it by the cost. That's how much you're paying to own the car a year, practically, before any other expenses.

@Deleted User

Sidenote: When you buy a car, and it's not from a dealer, it is imperative that you get newer tires. They may be good tread-wise, but tires older than 10 years are illegal in my state, and for good reason. Brake pads, too, are a neccesity. That will keep you from killing yourself on accident, because you never know what the person before you did with the car and how much they neglected it. So when you buy a car *used from a private owner*, factor in at least a solid 800 bucks for safety and a tune-up.

Source??

what the fuck are we looking at here

looks like single point EFI on an engine, I think its an old ad for vtech