Message from @Yuma County

Discord ID: 339189468135424000


2017-07-24 22:40:07 UTC  

So, that first number on the front there. The first number on a bottle of motor oil is always going to mean the viscosity. The lower the number, the less viscous the fluid is. While the higher the number, the more it is. To put things simply, the lower number means that the motor oil is more water like, while the higher number means the oil is far more thicker. So 20W motor oil is going to be thicker than 0W. If I ever find out anyone of you refer to higher viscous motor oil as “thicc” I will find you.

When I first started getting into mechanics, I was taught that the W after that first number stood for weight. Hey, it made sense for me at fourteen. But guess what, it doesn’t stand for weight at all. That W actually stands for winter. The first number with the W right next to it will mean that the motor oil will hold a different viscosity right after startup, or on a cold morning.

2017-07-24 22:40:21 UTC  

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/322712586741088256/339175000814649344/motoroil2.jpg

2017-07-24 22:40:25 UTC  

The second number coincides with that first number. While the first number refers the viscosity upon the engine starting, the second number refers to the high temperature rating for it. If you constantly bang through your gears on your way to work, or carve up the canyons on weekends a higher secondary number is going to be better for you. If you live in an area like I do, where it gets ridiculously hot outside, that secondary number is going to be beneficial to you as well.

You should always go by what your owner’s manual says. If the owner’s manual says use a Synthetic Blend 10W-30, or 0W-20, use it. If you have an older vehicle, or live in a place with odd temp fluctuations, it’s best to do your research before you do an oil change. Just because 10W-40 works for me, doesn’t mean it’s going to be an exact fit for you.

2017-07-24 22:44:22 UTC  

Some additions

2017-07-24 22:44:52 UTC  

The W stands for winter because an engine is almost always going to be cold when it's first started up. It's equating cold with winter.

2017-07-24 22:46:10 UTC  

SAE stands for Society of Automotive Engineers. These guys are behind the rating system for motor oil.

2017-07-24 22:54:36 UTC  

I like my motor oil T H I C C

2017-07-24 22:57:06 UTC  

Ok I got a question. My truck makes a click noise every 20 -25 seconds. Ice timed it. Don't matter if I'm sitting there idling or driving but it happenes at those times. Sounds like it's coming from the engine compartment.

2017-07-24 22:57:24 UTC  

That sound like anything to you. I'm broke so I'm afraid to bring it in.

2017-07-24 22:58:20 UTC  

This is my life

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/322712586741088256/339179526150029322/DXIezGC_d.jpg

2017-07-24 23:10:14 UTC  

May I ask for the make, model and what engine you've got in that truck?

2017-07-24 23:20:10 UTC  

Ford ranger 6 cylinder

2017-07-24 23:20:42 UTC  

The 3.0 Liter engine?

2017-07-24 23:23:17 UTC  

4

2017-07-24 23:26:08 UTC  

And you said it was happening during both idling when driving. Does it get worse when the engine is under load or is it a level clicking coming from the engine no matter the RPM range?

2017-07-24 23:35:24 UTC  

@Yuma County I have a question for you, I have a 2006 malibu. and my catalytic converter is really clogged(it's miss firing and I'm fixing that as well), it's starting to kick, like a tranny would, and it's heating up to over 200 degrees in like 5 minutes. So I'm trying to pull the damn thing out and I got the shield off and all the bolts except the one on the underside of the cat that holds that section of exhaust from shaking all over the place. It's the one that holds the cat/manifold to the block. My problem is I don't have an impact, and I can't use a breaker bar because you can't get enough ass on it to even start to get tension. Any ideas? I sprayed with cutting fluid, PB blaster, break cleaner and I can't get it to move at all.

2017-07-24 23:36:45 UTC  

It's a tight space between the firewall and the engine

2017-07-24 23:37:00 UTC  

I had the same issue working on a 1991 Toyota Pickup.

2017-07-24 23:37:18 UTC  

Exhausts are tricky to work on if you don't have a professional lift in your garage.

2017-07-24 23:37:40 UTC  

I was about to say I dont have a lift or life would be easy ahah

2017-07-24 23:37:51 UTC  

Lifts always make life easier.

2017-07-24 23:37:54 UTC  

Anywho

2017-07-24 23:38:56 UTC  

my old '91 had a four clinder engine and I ended up blowing a hole in the midpiple. Seperating it from the O2 sensor and the miffler was easy, but seperating it from the headers was a pain in the ass.

2017-07-24 23:39:07 UTC  

Usually those bolts see a lot of wear and tear.

2017-07-24 23:41:21 UTC  

Wait

2017-07-24 23:41:58 UTC  

Does your Malibus exhaust system have a mid-pipe section or is it just in two pieces?

2017-07-24 23:42:08 UTC  

Typically most exhaust come in threes.

2017-07-24 23:42:15 UTC  

Headers, mid, and muffler

2017-07-24 23:42:51 UTC  

oh damn, from the engine the manifold has the cat attached to it then it has a flange that I can seperate it from the muffler

2017-07-24 23:43:08 UTC  

just 1 cat. 4 cyclinder

2017-07-24 23:43:48 UTC  

Ah Chevys

2017-07-24 23:44:18 UTC  

yeah this thing was made during the years they cut every corner to save money to save the company

2017-07-24 23:45:12 UTC  

I would honestly recomend trying to hunt down an impact wrench fore sure. That doesn't mean give up on trying to get it yourself, however.

2017-07-24 23:45:26 UTC  

yeah that's what I was thinking too.

2017-07-24 23:45:38 UTC  

there's just not enough room to work

2017-07-24 23:45:53 UTC  

Be extremely careful if you're going to keep trying to unstick that bolt.

2017-07-24 23:46:07 UTC  

worn bolts can sheer, and then you're in some trouble.

2017-07-24 23:47:18 UTC  

for sure, I was going to drill it out and then just retap it, but I cant get enough force behind a drill to even make a dent.

2017-07-24 23:48:11 UTC  

My end goal is to pull out my cat and knock out the honeycomb and then reinstall it. haha

2017-07-24 23:48:45 UTC  

http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/factory-reconditioned-milwaukee-9070-80-7-amp-1-2-in--impact-wrench/milr9070-80,default,pd.html?ref=pla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=731&zmap=milr9070-80&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1-PU2Yyj1QIVSpF-Ch0J0wJaEAQYASABEgJiKPD_BwE

I found you a reconditioned impact wrench through Milwaukee. You probably wouldn't have a ton of use for a brand new one and I'm sure you don't have a spare $200-$400 laying around. I would keep this tab open just in case all other attempts fail.

2017-07-24 23:48:58 UTC  

You mean the honey comb filter or the clog?