Message from @Brenten.Ryan-AZ
Discord ID: 375761358815363072
ooosh
Wouldn't that mean a whole lot of pressure in the heads?
I don't know, it would seem like the logical thing, or do they just back out? Which I would find hard to believe, because the fuel rail is over top the ignition coil.
Like, wiggle out?
I guess I could see that. After all you really just screw them in.
I bought a used F150, fleet vehicle as is. It had a code for the O2 sensor, so I bought it thinking that's an easy fix. So I swapped it out and no more codes. It's running a little rough so I thought spark plugs or ignition coils. Spark plugs are cheaper so I started to change them and I got to bank 1 plug 2 and it's tac wielded in. The others are fine.
Ah so you think prior owner welded them?
Yes sir
That's the picture I could get down inside that hole
On the right side is the tac. I was going to knock it off, but I don't have a stick welder if I need to tac it back in.
What if it means the threads were stripped?
Or cross threaded. Would retapping it fix it? I feel like that would make the plug to loose.
I've never run into this problem.
Yeah it's a tricky one. Do you have contact for the guy you bought it from?
What year is the truck? ‘99 and later?
If so, there were only 4 threads so they popped out every so often.
Ford has a special tap and dye kit specifically for that but it’s 600$ and generic tap kits won’t work.
@RevStench it is a common issue I have heard of with the 4.2 and 4.6’s
There you go, I have a 4.6. It's a 2010. Would a dealership be able to fix the problem? Or do I have to bite the bullet and buy that tap?
The truck is like brand new, and I got it for $7500 so I don't mind putting some money into it.
It would probably be cheaper and less time consuming to have the dealership take care it.
The heads have to come off the the kit in my opinion is too fucking expensive to have a one or 2 time use out of it.
@RevStench but take it to an actual Ford dealership
Word, thanks man. I'm trying to treat this truck well, and I don't really trust some of these little auto shops around me, the actual Ford dealership was my only choice haha.
Good shit man, glad to help with the choice.
Keep us updated with her man
Will do, thank you.
@RevStench hey man if you search around on the web there's a tool that they use to extract those plugs because when you try to remove that it will probably break. There are techniques where you can put something like seafoam or something down in there and let it soak and saturate for a while and try to break it loose but they're notorious for that I would not take it to a dealer will be somebody else out there that can fix it for you for a lot cheaper I got the name of a good mechanic on Bardstown Road at fegenbush way.
Bardstown at Fegenbush is Bill Collins Ford?
Harpers chevron on Bardstown Road across from it. He's great! Been there 30 yrs and reasonable.
Ahh ok, I know where that is.
He's good
replaced front pads and rotors, went to bleed brakes and the brake fluid was dry. which explains why brake pedal was going thru the floor. the brake fluid reservior has a dark coloration up to 3/4 inch from the top which led me to believe it was full. itll be nice to have new brakes and rotors anyhow. its a 91 camry so parts are very cheap @Brenten.Ryan-AZ
@Deleted User sometimes the brake reservoir will leak back into the power booster and you may get some fluid coming through the firewall into the car under the carpet or you may smell something funny. You may want to look at that
>91 camry
>power booster
*what did he mean by this?*
ill look that up then check it out. whatevers leaking is under the passenger side and the brake fluid reservior is on opposite side of the engine compartment
The master cylinder typically attaches to a round drumlike vacuum assisted booster. Hence power brakes
@here halp
What’s up bud
So I just changed the spark plugs on my bike (kawasaki ninja 500), and when I turn it on and give it any throttle it just dies
Was it running well before you changed the plugs?