@Kaytee is our resident 3D printer expert

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3WjY2soJ04

henlo

@Hyperious if you find one let me know, do note you'll want to spend another $100 or so to replace the electronics with ones that wont catch on fire

also this is a bit of a controversial thing but i think your first pritner should _not_ have autolevelling, learning to do it manually will teach you a lot about how to maintain a printer and is a hop and a skip away from a better understanding of how to configure your slicer

you need to be more wary of super-cheap 3d printers than you do super-cheap computer power supplies, you're looking at 250W+ for hours on end on a machine with moving parts _and_ really hot parts

if they cheap out on the power supply, or the connectors to the controller, or the wiring, or anything like that, you get a fire, maybe just some magic smoke if you're lucky

is it even worth getting a chink 3d printer? sounds like I might as well spend like 500 bucks on a good one

if they cheap out on the frame, you get shit prints

there are good chink 3d printers

wanhao di3 is my go to rec

tevo tarantula is good

qidi tech one is probably my next move

do i have to mod it

you don't _have_ to, but you can mod a wanhao di3 to outperform a lulzbot easy

i mean mod it as in it wont burn my house down

di3 is pretty good there now, the first version had hot bed connectors not rated for the current but they fixed that

i have yet to replace the electronics in mine, gonna have to to replace the hotend with the chimera but that's gonna wait until after the move and probably after i get a third printer

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471 https://store.micro-swiss.com/pages/micro-swiss-all-metal-hotend the 3 most useful mods for di3

these alone and you have a pritner that shits on the official prusa i3

do u think its good enough to print AR15 lowers?

FDM is not suitable for firearm parts

you want a milling machine

metal infused ABS should work

that'd actually be even worse than PLA

have u seen the ar15 plastic lowers they make?

layer adhesion is a big problem in ABS on open frame printers

i have seen them, FDM still isn't suitable since you basically just have a bunch of flat sheets partway melted together in a stack

and not one solid block of an object

it can be shaken and shocked apart

what about ABS? isnt that just plastic

ABS has some thermal properties that make it kinda weird to work with

i cant remember what they guy used

if it was 3d printed, whatever he used is inferior to a milled-out block

oh defo

you want a milling machine if you're doing gunsmithing, i wouldn't trust a 3d printed lr as far as i could throw it

if ur curious this is the guy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlRN1C8t6n0&t=6s

he shot it supressed 60 rounds so it had some back boen to it but i agree

purely because possibility of the repeated shocks cracking it apart along the layers

yeah :/

i would love to make gun parts though, like stock parts or braces

in ABS especially it's easy to have some layers that are just weakly bonded, especially if you're fairly new to 3d printing or to 3d printing ABS