Message from @tgotr
Discord ID: 358713883235713025
had to do a lot of "okay, is this value right? no, slightly off, change firmware, flash, how bout now? no, still off, gdi"
but one can make it work with patience since you can measure test cubes with a caliper that size
yea
i just want like a fkn 12 inch caliper
only the expensive Real Machinist Tools brands seem to make them though
i live well enough but i can't exactly sit here and drop a grand on some mitutoyos for a specific project like that
I use a 12 inch Caliper when welding, they can be a pain in the ass on their own
if you have access to one use it
you'll be up and running with a delta kit way faster
ah OK.
OH, thing to note with the sub-$200 printer kits
you _must_ replace the power supply, and you _must_ put a fet between the heated bed and the hot bed connector on the board
otherwise you will have fires, maybe not immediately, but it will happen
ahhh. a fet?
you simply do not fit a safe and reliable 25A+ power supply in that budget, and the boards cannot handle the current a hot bed needs
ohh
so you put the heat bed output on the gate of the fet and wire that up to the power supply directly instead of putting all 20A of that through the pcb
not a problem. 20A Power supplies aren't hard to come by. What is the voltage required?
16A minimum, but honestly if you aren't putting 20A through that bed you aren't getting much use out of it for the plastics that it helps
depends, you have 12v and 24v pritners, most are 12v
all the beds can run on either and i would actually recommend getting a 24v supply to run the bed and maybe just give it its own controller instead of having the 3d printer control that
you'll get same power with less current
if you use a psu for just the heat bed, make _absolutely sure_ it can shit out absolute minimum 16A indefinitely, and you really want 20A
if you're gonna use it for the whole printer, 25A-30A
OK
a lot of people use gaymurr psus for this
Not all materials require a heatbed so. Maybe a separate PSU is in order
since they all have multiple super high current 12v rails and big chunky connectors meant to handle lots of current
most require a heat bed
you're limited to PLA and PVA without one
Yea, and PLA is shit
it's got pretty good wear resistance but for most applications i'd rather use abs or nylon, yeah
it's also got some surprisingly good chemical resistance, better than abs at least
gonna have a hard time attacking pla with any solvents normal people will have on hand
Acetone smooths out PLA if I remember right, the fumes at least
pla ighnores acetone
acetone smooths out abs though
Ok. My bad
well, ignores, if you let it soak in acetone it will very very slowly attack it
but you'll see it soften and delaminate, not dissolve smooth