Yep, that's the code. I appreciate the advice, I'll give it a look here soon. Apparently the issue is the valve isn't closing so I might just replace it. Thanks a lot, brother!

Typically you'll know they've gone bad if you begin to smell gas. Best of luck!

@here the next blurb will probably come up 4pm-5:30pm MST, I'm trying to avoid the peak heat of today.

@Atten - TX 1.8T?

It's super easy, but when you take off the old one, tap it on a white piece of paper and see if any little black chunks come out. If they do, it's your charcoal canister falling apart internally and clogging the valve, and a new valve will get clogged before too long. The charcoal canister is behind the right rear wheel, it's easy enough to replace but the wheel has to come off

Well before I got to that I needed to replace my two headlight bulbs. After doing that, neither the low beams or high beams work. I'm not sure what's causing it, as I only replaced the two low beam bulbs.

Fuse maybe...

Check your fuses. That's where a good portion of electrical issues lie.

Were the new bulbs OEM?

The beetle headlights are a bitch. Does your headlight assembly have a connector on the back that you had to detach after you pulled the assembly out? Or does it just seat into the connector at the back when you lock the headlight in place? Try pushing on the headlight with the ignition and lights on, I bet the low beam will come on. It's hard to get them to seat correctly and lock in place

@Atten - TX

I've checked the fuses and they seem to be alright, I'll have to take a closer look after work. The assembly just has the connector at the back that pushes back in, so I'll also try giving them a good push again to see if that helps.

There should be a very audible click when they're locked in fully. Make sure you start with the little metal rod in the fully unlocked position, otherwise you can break the plastic headlight bucket

I'm glad you said something, I gave it a push and it came on for a second but didn't stay in place. I didn't even remember to unlock that rod again.

But I'm thinking that should be it, thanks a lot to all of you!

It's a dumb design.

Seriously, I've never had so much trouble with something as simple as a low beam bulb change. Now on to changing the purge valve and the connectors for my turn signals...

@Atten - TX#2465 make sure when you're done to have everything well insulated, even if you have to wrap it in electrical tape like a nig. I blew a fuse on my bike because I didn't wrap a connection and then washed my bike.

What does it mean if my car just loses power in it's accelerator? It does thing where it'll drive fine, then slowly lose power and eventually I'll have no power at all in the accelerator, but the vehicles interior lighting is all still on. If I turn the whole car off and back on it'll very temporarily fix the issue (for like 2 minutes). If I downshift I get a little bit more output from the engine but it tapers off (it has a lot of initial output, then none very quickly).

It's only ever happened 2x

There's so many electrical things on these cars nowadays it's going to be hard to track down. When it has no power if you put it in neutral and Deuce the gas and see if the engine still runs smoothly if it does it could be something in the transmission. The Transmissions are electronically controlled. You may have to try a little plane with it when it happens put it in neutral see if the engine run smoothly if not it's in the ignition system possibly

One thing you can do is take it to your local auto parts place and ask them to pull the codes on it. If your check engine light pops on while you're driving it shows that there is a problem and they can pull the codes and tell you if there are any issues

Cool, I guess I'll just play Russian roulette with it until I can find a mechanic who knows what's wrong with it. Both of the mechanics I've been to so far have don't have any leads because it isn't chronically recurring

Well if your check engine light is on they can pull the Colts. If not like I said when you are driving it and it happens try to see if it's in the actual motor or just that the car won't pull itself. The actual mechanic on this channel could probably give you a little more information. He's pretty good at his job

!

@Deleted User could you explain the issue a bit further? I know you mentioned earlier in another server you were having a transmission leak. If it's a power delivery issue on top of your transmission leak, that's a good place to focus your attention.

It sounds like a fuel delivery issue to be completely honest. If it's happened only twice, it's definitely something to keep your eye on.

Basically I'll be driving and lose power on the accelerator. There will be no output at all. If I stop the car and restart it I can get up to like 3rd, maybe 4th gear but lose power again with 5 minutes. It sorts itself out within a couple of hours

Your accelerator wouldn't happen to go limp when this happened, right?

I really want to say that is has something to do with your car's fuel delivery system.

I would start with your injectors and start working your way back to the fuel filter. If it throws a code, getting that checked would help immensely.

Im not really sure what you mean by limp, it becomes sort of soft almost, but soft in the sense that the engine is unresponsive

but it doesnt go limp, I have to apply a normal amount of pressure to push it down

@Yuma County it might have a code but theres no light, it could be fuel delivery, but I buy highest octane. Not to say it isnt fuel delivery but doesnt that minimize the chance that you get a shitty batch>

The highest grade possible just means you'll have a lower chance of misfiring in the simplest sense. Check to see if it's throwing a code, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue for sure. It could be a couple things really, bad injectors, or your wiring system between your accelerator.

Between your accelerator and engine.

Gotcha, thanks for the help! @Yuma County

@Deleted User if it happens again, let us know. 👍🏻

Of course

@Deleted User does the engine die (0 rpm) or just lose power while running still?

Never checked, that's a very good question