Message from Deleted User in MacGuyver - Skills & Academics #mechanics

2017-07-25 20:37:19 UTC  

Older tires have a bit of an issue holding a bead when they age.

2017-07-25 20:44:36 UTC  

I'll have to mention that when I go to my mechanic. Hopefully they can give me a few options. Thanks again

2017-07-26 00:27:56 UTC  

Some of your alloy rims may have a little oxidation that forms around the seal which requires a little cleaning off whenever they break the tire down. I've seen a couple of rims that just would not hold air because of the pitting caused by this

2017-07-27 00:23:11 UTC  

I have an overheating problem with my 2005 Honda Civic. I replaced the thermostat, replaced the coolant, and had an oil change but I am still overheating when I idle for a minute or two, usually after driving 30 miles or so. When I turn on the heater to cool my engine off it doesn't blow out any hot air which leads me to think it could be my water pump. Any suggestions?

2017-07-27 00:35:20 UTC  

If the heater core is not producing any heat it kind of points to a circulation issue. You may want to go back and check that thermostat make sure it's in right side up and not in a bind sometimes you could get a defective one from the store. You may want to check the thermostat and or electric fans that cool the radiator make sure they are cycling off and on

2017-07-27 01:57:18 UTC  

The thermostat and fan seems just fine

2017-07-28 06:08:21 UTC  

Have you checked your water pump in the last day? @Honneur et Patrie

2017-07-28 19:25:13 UTC  

I'm not very experienced when it comes to working on cars, but do any of you goys know how difficult it would be to change out a purge valve in an evap system?

2017-07-28 19:35:26 UTC  

What make and model?

2017-07-28 19:59:25 UTC  

It's an 07 VW Beetle.

2017-07-28 20:01:57 UTC  

I know VW can be a pain to work on, especially for someone like me who is very inexperienced haha

2017-07-28 21:55:50 UTC  

@Atten - TX#2465 P0455 code? It's cake. Your purge valve is only held on by 2 clamps. You have to remove the shield/cover that covers your engine and it's right on top, you can't miss it. The only tool you'll need is the screwdriver to disconnect the air intake hose from that shield/cover.

2017-07-28 21:56:19 UTC  

You can try and clean the old one and see if that gets rid of the light.

2017-07-28 21:57:20 UTC  

save yourself a whole 20 bucks ahah

2017-07-29 00:22:24 UTC  

Yep, that's the code. I appreciate the advice, I'll give it a look here soon. Apparently the issue is the valve isn't closing so I might just replace it. Thanks a lot, brother!

2017-07-29 05:47:56 UTC  

Typically you'll know they've gone bad if you begin to smell gas. Best of luck!

2017-07-30 20:41:23 UTC  

@here the next blurb will probably come up 4pm-5:30pm MST, I'm trying to avoid the peak heat of today.

2017-07-30 20:58:55 UTC  
2017-07-30 21:01:23 UTC  

It's super easy, but when you take off the old one, tap it on a white piece of paper and see if any little black chunks come out. If they do, it's your charcoal canister falling apart internally and clogging the valve, and a new valve will get clogged before too long. The charcoal canister is behind the right rear wheel, it's easy enough to replace but the wheel has to come off

2017-07-30 21:23:59 UTC  

Well before I got to that I needed to replace my two headlight bulbs. After doing that, neither the low beams or high beams work. I'm not sure what's causing it, as I only replaced the two low beam bulbs.

2017-07-30 21:27:04 UTC  

Fuse maybe...

2017-07-30 21:34:11 UTC  

Check your fuses. That's where a good portion of electrical issues lie.

2017-07-30 21:34:17 UTC  

Were the new bulbs OEM?

2017-07-30 21:39:44 UTC  

The beetle headlights are a bitch. Does your headlight assembly have a connector on the back that you had to detach after you pulled the assembly out? Or does it just seat into the connector at the back when you lock the headlight in place? Try pushing on the headlight with the ignition and lights on, I bet the low beam will come on. It's hard to get them to seat correctly and lock in place

2017-07-30 21:39:51 UTC  
2017-07-30 22:18:43 UTC  

I've checked the fuses and they seem to be alright, I'll have to take a closer look after work. The assembly just has the connector at the back that pushes back in, so I'll also try giving them a good push again to see if that helps.

2017-07-30 22:31:15 UTC  

There should be a very audible click when they're locked in fully. Make sure you start with the little metal rod in the fully unlocked position, otherwise you can break the plastic headlight bucket

2017-07-30 22:35:40 UTC  

I'm glad you said something, I gave it a push and it came on for a second but didn't stay in place. I didn't even remember to unlock that rod again.

2017-07-30 22:36:01 UTC  

But I'm thinking that should be it, thanks a lot to all of you!

2017-07-30 23:20:28 UTC  

It's a dumb design.

2017-07-30 23:45:39 UTC  

Seriously, I've never had so much trouble with something as simple as a low beam bulb change. Now on to changing the purge valve and the connectors for my turn signals...

2017-07-31 00:05:49 UTC  

@Atten - TX#2465 make sure when you're done to have everything well insulated, even if you have to wrap it in electrical tape like a nig. I blew a fuse on my bike because I didn't wrap a connection and then washed my bike.

2017-08-03 13:12:36 UTC  

What does it mean if my car just loses power in it's accelerator? It does thing where it'll drive fine, then slowly lose power and eventually I'll have no power at all in the accelerator, but the vehicles interior lighting is all still on. If I turn the whole car off and back on it'll very temporarily fix the issue (for like 2 minutes). If I downshift I get a little bit more output from the engine but it tapers off (it has a lot of initial output, then none very quickly).

2017-08-03 13:13:03 UTC  

It's only ever happened 2x

2017-08-03 13:19:35 UTC  

There's so many electrical things on these cars nowadays it's going to be hard to track down. When it has no power if you put it in neutral and Deuce the gas and see if the engine still runs smoothly if it does it could be something in the transmission. The Transmissions are electronically controlled. You may have to try a little plane with it when it happens put it in neutral see if the engine run smoothly if not it's in the ignition system possibly

2017-08-03 13:20:12 UTC  

One thing you can do is take it to your local auto parts place and ask them to pull the codes on it. If your check engine light pops on while you're driving it shows that there is a problem and they can pull the codes and tell you if there are any issues

2017-08-03 13:52:50 UTC  

Cool, I guess I'll just play Russian roulette with it until I can find a mechanic who knows what's wrong with it. Both of the mechanics I've been to so far have don't have any leads because it isn't chronically recurring

2017-08-03 14:20:42 UTC  

Well if your check engine light is on they can pull the Colts. If not like I said when you are driving it and it happens try to see if it's in the actual motor or just that the car won't pull itself. The actual mechanic on this channel could probably give you a little more information. He's pretty good at his job

2017-08-03 14:20:49 UTC  


2017-08-03 20:19:19 UTC  

@Deleted User could you explain the issue a bit further? I know you mentioned earlier in another server you were having a transmission leak. If it's a power delivery issue on top of your transmission leak, that's a good place to focus your attention.

2017-08-03 20:23:16 UTC  

It sounds like a fuel delivery issue to be completely honest. If it's happened only twice, it's definitely something to keep your eye on.