But I'm thinking that should be it, thanks a lot to all of you!

It's a dumb design.

Seriously, I've never had so much trouble with something as simple as a low beam bulb change. Now on to changing the purge valve and the connectors for my turn signals...

@Atten - TX#2465 make sure when you're done to have everything well insulated, even if you have to wrap it in electrical tape like a nig. I blew a fuse on my bike because I didn't wrap a connection and then washed my bike.

What does it mean if my car just loses power in it's accelerator? It does thing where it'll drive fine, then slowly lose power and eventually I'll have no power at all in the accelerator, but the vehicles interior lighting is all still on. If I turn the whole car off and back on it'll very temporarily fix the issue (for like 2 minutes). If I downshift I get a little bit more output from the engine but it tapers off (it has a lot of initial output, then none very quickly).

It's only ever happened 2x

There's so many electrical things on these cars nowadays it's going to be hard to track down. When it has no power if you put it in neutral and Deuce the gas and see if the engine still runs smoothly if it does it could be something in the transmission. The Transmissions are electronically controlled. You may have to try a little plane with it when it happens put it in neutral see if the engine run smoothly if not it's in the ignition system possibly

One thing you can do is take it to your local auto parts place and ask them to pull the codes on it. If your check engine light pops on while you're driving it shows that there is a problem and they can pull the codes and tell you if there are any issues

Cool, I guess I'll just play Russian roulette with it until I can find a mechanic who knows what's wrong with it. Both of the mechanics I've been to so far have don't have any leads because it isn't chronically recurring

Well if your check engine light is on they can pull the Colts. If not like I said when you are driving it and it happens try to see if it's in the actual motor or just that the car won't pull itself. The actual mechanic on this channel could probably give you a little more information. He's pretty good at his job

!

@Deleted User could you explain the issue a bit further? I know you mentioned earlier in another server you were having a transmission leak. If it's a power delivery issue on top of your transmission leak, that's a good place to focus your attention.

It sounds like a fuel delivery issue to be completely honest. If it's happened only twice, it's definitely something to keep your eye on.

Basically I'll be driving and lose power on the accelerator. There will be no output at all. If I stop the car and restart it I can get up to like 3rd, maybe 4th gear but lose power again with 5 minutes. It sorts itself out within a couple of hours

Your accelerator wouldn't happen to go limp when this happened, right?

I really want to say that is has something to do with your car's fuel delivery system.

I would start with your injectors and start working your way back to the fuel filter. If it throws a code, getting that checked would help immensely.

Im not really sure what you mean by limp, it becomes sort of soft almost, but soft in the sense that the engine is unresponsive

but it doesnt go limp, I have to apply a normal amount of pressure to push it down

@Yuma County it might have a code but theres no light, it could be fuel delivery, but I buy highest octane. Not to say it isnt fuel delivery but doesnt that minimize the chance that you get a shitty batch>

The highest grade possible just means you'll have a lower chance of misfiring in the simplest sense. Check to see if it's throwing a code, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue for sure. It could be a couple things really, bad injectors, or your wiring system between your accelerator.

Between your accelerator and engine.

Gotcha, thanks for the help! @Yuma County

@Deleted User if it happens again, let us know. 👍🏻

Of course

@Deleted User does the engine die (0 rpm) or just lose power while running still?

Never checked, that's a very good question

If it happens again, watch the rpm and see if it dies, if it falls up and down erratically, or if it remains steady while there's no power

I would guess fuel pump, but without knowing more or scanning the ecm it's hard to say. Could be a MAF sensor too

(Or brake fluid)

Just had the brakes bled and fluid replaced mid last month If that makes any difference

Happened both before and after that was done

@Deleted User could be your alternator starting to fail or a bad fuseable link.

I would say get a voltameter and test your alternator cables both to the starter and battery. If they are good take your alternator to advanced auto parts and have them test it. They may be able to do it with it on the car. Either way it's free. Start with the the obvious and free stuff. Also have them read your codes while you're there.

I was memeing about the brake fluid, sorry.

Doubt it's an alternator, if the battery voltage dropped enough to kill the engine it wouldn't start up again minutes later. Also you would see a battery light probably. What year is your car? We're talking about the mini, right?

@Deleted User

I've had it happen. Just saying. Either way he needs to get his codes read at the very least. Like you recommended.

you're right about the battery light though so scratch that

Well, who knows what the parameters are for tripping the light or whether the circuit is working, I've seen bad alternators not set off the light. We can't really help without pulling the codes or doing some testing, unfortunately.

@Deleted User go get the damn ecm codes. Now I'm intrigued.