Message from @JohnStrasser
Discord ID: 364875311793569793
I don't even know if that would work though. We need somebody who knows electric better than I do.
Use your voltimeter the same way you already are, except instead of connecting to + / - connect to the wires themselves. Of course, the battery wires themselves should be pretty easy to inspect visually.
Does it need to be on? Or would they be live just connected to the batteries
They would be live all the way to the ignition switch
Okay
Do that and then check for 12v at the ignition switch also. Does it do anything at all? Normally if your battery is good and cables good but everything is dead it's a fuse and/or relay.
@Fvtvresoldier JohnStrasser#3954 identify the wires that lead to an ignition source and then to the starter. I am not too versed with motorcycles but testing power flow is the same for all DC circuits. What kind of bike and what year is it? For a generic example I'll give you some pointers.
Do an available voltage test through all points of that circuit, to include the ground.
Go from battery positive to your starter switch. Back probe into your connector for that switch and make sure you have source voltage. On output of that, it should lead into a relay control circuit. (Relays use low current to control high current). If you engage that switch you should have a source voltage going into the control side and mV on the ground side of that control side. on the controlled end of that relay you should have source voltage on the input end and mV on the output end while the circuit is disengaged.
Depressing the switch (if the control side of the circuit is working properly) should allow source voltage to flow through it to the starter.
A rule of thumb for power flow: If you don't have voltage what you should, you have an open in the circuit. If you have less voltage than you should, you have high resistance. If you have voltage where you shouldn't then you have an open on the ground side of that circuit.
This excludes short to grounds or a short to power.
This should be of some help in electrical diagnosis for everyone here.
For what it's worth I believe on a motorcycle the ignition switch is going to bring either the fuse box or a relay of some kind into play which is going to control all the power on the motorcycle
Ignition switch has 12v going to it, all the wires have at least some power
What you might be getting is some false readings from your digital meter. You may have to disconnect the wiring harness or connector from the ignition that is going to the loads or the fuse box. Since it is a negative ground situation if you're using the vehicle for your testing point you could get some deceptive readings through your meter. You're going to have to isolate the ignition switch output. I'm assuming that these voltage is leaving the ignition switch are very low in value
Assuming the ignition switch test good the power should leave the switch and go to a fuse box or a relay possibly controlling the power to the fuse box
The problem could be that relay which is not calling for the fuse box to energize
Bingo^
@JohnStrasser what are the values?
those numbers tell the tale of what is going on in the circuit
If we know what they're supposed to be. Of course the switch should be 12v.
Have you tried to roll start it by chance?
Can't roll start
Taking a brake from the frustration to shower then heading to work. I did enlist some help from on of my local goys
Hopefully he'll figure it out
It almost has to be the ignition or ignition switch relay
Oh gotcha. Have you checked fuses? First thing to do on any electrical problem is check fuses. Just use a test light to both sides of the fuse.
All the fuses I could find were good
Everything goes to the ignition switch or relay
I fix the electrical problem and now the carburetor is leaking gas
What was the electrical problem?
There is a blown fuse hiding that I couldn't find until today
It was just barely blown to it was crazy I should have taken a picture before I threw it away
When I first took it out it looked fine
Where is your carb leaking from?
and how?
I couldn't quite see I had to leave for work right after I got done fixing the electrical problem. But it look like it was from the bottom of the carb
I'm going to look at it more tomorrow I disconnected the gas tank to avoid any further leakage
I did clean the carbs and take everything apart so maybe I didn't tighten something
How's the gasket? A lot of times that's just a worn gasket at the top of the carb. The liquid follows the curve of the carb and makes it look like a leak from the bottom. What do you think @Brenten.Ryan-AZ ?
Great glad you fixed it. That's why I say any electrical problem check your fuses first. And barley blow is blown as long as it isn't solid the current can not travel through it. When you took the carbs apart did you replace the gasket? Those paper gasket are made for one time use only if you take it apart you need to replace it.
@everyone I am an industrial Mechanic in automotive industry that makes bearing for BMW, Volvo, and many more. Currently in school to finish mechanical engineering program. If I can be assistance to anyone just let me know.