Messsage from sigruna14 in MacGuyver - Skills & Academics #mechanics
@Deleted User alright negro, I'm going to guess misfiring at high speeds. Cylinder 6 is probably the one too, which would be from the front of the truck, bank 2 right side, number 2 cylinder which is the 2nd one from the front. Check the plug, if it's ok, look to see if any other are misfiring. If you don't see any abnormal build up it's still probably the number 6 cylinder ignition coil, '09 to 14 are notorious for it. The one I bought Tuesday had the same problem, except mine shook at around 45ish. I just swapped the plug and the tube, not the ignition coil. And that fixed mine.
The guy at auto zone knew exactly what problem I was having, I upgraded the spark plugs as well
If this ends up not working I'm going to swap the ignition coil on cylinder 6.
302. Same as the Mustangs
Thanks, looking for related TSB's now.
Ty i appreciate it
No present TSB's for that specific concern brother.
Yours is a one piece drive shaft, correct?
have the other gentleman look at it when you both meet, if he can't solve it grab those Chassis ears and I'll walk you through vibration orders to get it under wraps.
Ok sounds good. Ty
@here no power to my bike. Battery is hooked up and it's reading well
Have you tried not crashing it?
@JohnStrasser Are you cables connected to the ignition sequence/not grounding out?
I think everything is connected im double checking
If it ain't the battery it's the wires.
How do I identify which wires are bad?
It's a damn good question. I'm not very experienced with electric, but if it were me, I'd probably start sampling the wires with the mulitmeter at various points around the vehicle's electrical circuit. Before and after starter, before + after alternator, whatever, try to find where there stops being electricity.
I don't even know if that would work though. We need somebody who knows electric better than I do.
Use your voltimeter the same way you already are, except instead of connecting to + / - connect to the wires themselves. Of course, the battery wires themselves should be pretty easy to inspect visually.
Does it need to be on? Or would they be live just connected to the batteries
They would be live all the way to the ignition switch
Do that and then check for 12v at the ignition switch also. Does it do anything at all? Normally if your battery is good and cables good but everything is dead it's a fuse and/or relay.
@Fvtvresoldier JohnStrasser#3954 identify the wires that lead to an ignition source and then to the starter. I am not too versed with motorcycles but testing power flow is the same for all DC circuits. What kind of bike and what year is it? For a generic example I'll give you some pointers.
Do an available voltage test through all points of that circuit, to include the ground.
Go from battery positive to your starter switch. Back probe into your connector for that switch and make sure you have source voltage. On output of that, it should lead into a relay control circuit. (Relays use low current to control high current). If you engage that switch you should have a source voltage going into the control side and mV on the ground side of that control side. on the controlled end of that relay you should have source voltage on the input end and mV on the output end while the circuit is disengaged.
Depressing the switch (if the control side of the circuit is working properly) should allow source voltage to flow through it to the starter.
A rule of thumb for power flow: If you don't have voltage what you should, you have an open in the circuit. If you have less voltage than you should, you have high resistance. If you have voltage where you shouldn't then you have an open on the ground side of that circuit.
This excludes short to grounds or a short to power.
This should be of some help in electrical diagnosis for everyone here.
For what it's worth I believe on a motorcycle the ignition switch is going to bring either the fuse box or a relay of some kind into play which is going to control all the power on the motorcycle
Ignition switch has 12v going to it, all the wires have at least some power
What you might be getting is some false readings from your digital meter. You may have to disconnect the wiring harness or connector from the ignition that is going to the loads or the fuse box. Since it is a negative ground situation if you're using the vehicle for your testing point you could get some deceptive readings through your meter. You're going to have to isolate the ignition switch output. I'm assuming that these voltage is leaving the ignition switch are very low in value
Assuming the ignition switch test good the power should leave the switch and go to a fuse box or a relay possibly controlling the power to the fuse box
The problem could be that relay which is not calling for the fuse box to energize
@JohnStrasser what are the values?
those numbers tell the tale of what is going on in the circuit
If we know what they're supposed to be. Of course the switch should be 12v.
Have you tried to roll start it by chance?
Can't roll start