Message from @sigruna14
Discord ID: 441775283951894549
Is there any way to know for sure if it's the IAC before I clean it? Cause I don't have full confidence that cleaning it will work, maybe I don't do a thorough enough job, or it just doesn't work and what it really needs is replacing. But I'm not sure how to test it. @Pinochetball @JesseJames
Usually, you should be able to pull the IAC off, keep it plugged in, and have a friend turn the key to just the "on/run" position (not start it) and you should see it move a bit
Also, what kind of little handheld code reader do you have?
Most of those, even the little cheapos, you should be able to see the long and short term fuel trims
Just some $20 Advance junk that tells you if there's codes and which monitors are ready.
A 95 model is obd2 they got it before the v8 models. You should be able to scan it and retrieve any stored codes.
@JesseJames I sprayed a bunch of stuff but I didn't hear it rev up. I unplugged the MAF sensor so I could hear better (revs went down) and then if I put my ear up to the throttle body/IAC, I can hear a loud hiss of air, but not sure if it's just the normal air flow through the IAC.
The hiss could be normal. Air coming in the intake through the tb does hiss. But if you had a leak it could hiss also. Can you feel any air at the iac location? Being that unplugging the maf makes the engine idle I am leaning that way. Did you try to pull any codes with your scanner? Keep in mind you unplugging stuff while the car is running will set a code so you will need to check how many times it has set that code. But if you could find a cheap maf to test by swapping it out would maybe be the best route.
@JesseJames Pulling the MAF makes the actual revs go to normal, but the engine chugs and struggles, almost died earlier when I had the MAF unplugged.
There's no MIL.
When the maf is plugged it it changes the settings on the car according to the air that is metered. When you unplug it it goes to a stored default setting that will allow the car to run but it isn't efficient. Just because the light isn't on doesn't mean there isn't codes stored. Have you checked? The obd1 and early obd1/2 hybrids like yours are not near as efficient as obd2 or the later canbus systems. @sigruna14
@JesseJames Well, I did check at one point when the MIL actually did come on because I unplugged the IAT by mistake, but the only code was for the IAT.
@sigruna14 darn. So if you have a parts store you frequent or preferably know someone who works at a parts store I would go to them get the maf and try it. If it doesn't fix it return it and tell them it turns out you allready had an extra so you didn't need it.
@sigruna14 if that's not an option and you have a Dmm you and I could do a video chat and I could walk you through some tests on various parts.
@JesseJames I have a multimeter. Is there an effective way to test it with that?
You bet. Dmm= digital multi meter. What are your work hours tomorrow?
@JesseJames 9-5
Wish I had me a smoke machine but they're $750.
A couple years back I tore down half the motor to do the lower intake manifold gaskets. It damn well better not be then that's leaking cause that's not a job I wanna do again.
@JesseJames I was reading some advice to block the intake and if the car doesn't stall, you've got a vacuum leak. I tried putting my hand over the throttle body last night, but immediately pulled it away cause of the strong vacuum. Do you think it's safe to do that, or is the negative pressure dangerously high? If not, what could I use to block the intake?
Unless it is a very bad leak it won't stay running for very long anyway. I have a pretty busy day but I will find some specs for the maf and iacv and get with you on testing them later.
True or false: putting a performance carburetor on your motor can render your mechanical fuel pump insufficient, potentially necessitating an electric fuel pump.
<@&435155863217504256> Please have a look at my question when you get a chance. Thanks.
@Deleted User certainly there are carbs big enough that they will not be supported by the stock pump. But if your engine isn't a wildly built engine you don't need a carb that big. If you have a slightly modded or stock engine and wish to upgrade the carb chances are your stock pump will be ok. But they also make mechanical pumps that flow more than stock.
Sorry I have been out of town and not on my phone much.
I'm assuming there are no external leaks? I'm also assuming there is no gas in the oil? Also that is a returnless system right?
Try taking the filter out of the line and just running the line straight to the carb. I've seen a few filters suck air and cause this issue. I wouldn't think the carb would cause this issue. Honestly though I've never worked on many carb vehicles. All have been for hobby/racing applications.
I know a few old guys that I always go to for carb help that I can talk to tho. One is of the greatest generation and really knows his shit.
Still had the trouble then? If so that tells us it isn't anything from the tank to the pump or the pump to carb. That leaves the carb or pump.
Where the filter glass meets the end of the filter allows air in the system causing an issue like you describe.
Well I always remove the filter from the carb. But I thought u had an inline filter.
Yes try removing that from the system
I have seen it happen a few times. Once to me and when it does this the fuel doesn't leak out of the filter it just allows air in causing the pump to lose prime and therefor fuel psi.
Wish u was close enough for me to run over and check it out.
We would probably figure it out pretty quick on that stuff. I always know it all when I consume it.
That stuff was like water. I was scared to drink it because I thought I was going to accidentally die from alcohol poisoning
It could happen for sure.
Trying to change my wheel bearing for the first time on my own with a grand am. Any advice on changing it. Trying to avoid having to pump the brakes