Also there is a sticker on the TB that says not to clean it because there is a special coating.

If it's the IAC pindle sticking that's causing this, should physically removing the IAC from the TB and then starting the car make the symptom go away?

@Pinochetball ^

No dont do that lol

Youll have massive unmetered air

The car wont even start

Ok if the TB says not to clean it, then just make sure nothing is keeping the blade open, but id take that IAC off and clean it real well

Sorry i didnt get a chance to send you any test plans, today was busy as shit

That's alright.

So you pulled the MAF pigtail and the car ran rough?

@Pinochetball "Pigtail"? I unplugged the sensor, and yeah, it barely ran.

Lol yeah pigtail is just what i call the connector ends

Thats ok tho thats a good sign actually

I'm still not sure how to tell the IAC valve from the TPS. I know you said the TPS was the big aluminum thing on top and IAC is just a little plastic piece on the side, but I'm looking at some YouTube videos and it seems like they're calling the big one the IAC, but sadly I can't find a video of someone doing this on my exact engine.

Oh, another thing I noticed today: A popping feeling in my accelerator. When it's all the way up and I press down, there's a tiny little pop, like I'm overcoming an infinitesimal amount of resistance.

Yeah I'm looking up pics of the IAC on AutoZone.com and I'm pretty sure the IAC is the big one on top.

Is there any way to know for sure if it's the IAC before I clean it? Cause I don't have full confidence that cleaning it will work, maybe I don't do a thorough enough job, or it just doesn't work and what it really needs is replacing. But I'm not sure how to test it. @Pinochetball @JesseJames

Usually, you should be able to pull the IAC off, keep it plugged in, and have a friend turn the key to just the "on/run" position (not start it) and you should see it move a bit

Also, what kind of little handheld code reader do you have?

Most of those, even the little cheapos, you should be able to see the long and short term fuel trims

Just some $20 Advance junk that tells you if there's codes and which monitors are ready.

A 95 model is obd2 they got it before the v8 models. You should be able to scan it and retrieve any stored codes.

@JesseJames I sprayed a bunch of stuff but I didn't hear it rev up. I unplugged the MAF sensor so I could hear better (revs went down) and then if I put my ear up to the throttle body/IAC, I can hear a loud hiss of air, but not sure if it's just the normal air flow through the IAC.

The hiss could be normal. Air coming in the intake through the tb does hiss. But if you had a leak it could hiss also. Can you feel any air at the iac location? Being that unplugging the maf makes the engine idle I am leaning that way. Did you try to pull any codes with your scanner? Keep in mind you unplugging stuff while the car is running will set a code so you will need to check how many times it has set that code. But if you could find a cheap maf to test by swapping it out would maybe be the best route.

@sigruna14

@JesseJames Pulling the MAF makes the actual revs go to normal, but the engine chugs and struggles, almost died earlier when I had the MAF unplugged.

There's no MIL.

When the maf is plugged it it changes the settings on the car according to the air that is metered. When you unplug it it goes to a stored default setting that will allow the car to run but it isn't efficient. Just because the light isn't on doesn't mean there isn't codes stored. Have you checked? The obd1 and early obd1/2 hybrids like yours are not near as efficient as obd2 or the later canbus systems. @sigruna14

@JesseJames Well, I did check at one point when the MIL actually did come on because I unplugged the IAT by mistake, but the only code was for the IAT.

@sigruna14 darn. So if you have a parts store you frequent or preferably know someone who works at a parts store I would go to them get the maf and try it. If it doesn't fix it return it and tell them it turns out you allready had an extra so you didn't need it.

@sigruna14 if that's not an option and you have a Dmm you and I could do a video chat and I could walk you through some tests on various parts.

@JesseJames I have a multimeter. Is there an effective way to test it with that?

You bet. Dmm= digital multi meter. What are your work hours tomorrow?

@JesseJames 9-5

Wish I had me a smoke machine but they're $750.

A couple years back I tore down half the motor to do the lower intake manifold gaskets. It damn well better not be then that's leaking cause that's not a job I wanna do again.

@JesseJames I was reading some advice to block the intake and if the car doesn't stall, you've got a vacuum leak. I tried putting my hand over the throttle body last night, but immediately pulled it away cause of the strong vacuum. Do you think it's safe to do that, or is the negative pressure dangerously high? If not, what could I use to block the intake?

Unless it is a very bad leak it won't stay running for very long anyway. I have a pretty busy day but I will find some specs for the maf and iacv and get with you on testing them later.

True or false: putting a performance carburetor on your motor can render your mechanical fuel pump insufficient, potentially necessitating an electric fuel pump.

<@&435155863217504256> Please have a look at my question when you get a chance. Thanks.