Message from @Deleted User
Discord ID: 408341435813855232
We use one, I work primarily in residential. We have to set up little containment barriers. And I have to keep up with OSHA lead saftey classes. That's every 5 years, plus all those other OSHA saftey classes(fall prevention, ladder, scaffolding safety, lock out/tag out for the occasion I'm in an industrial building ect...) Then for KY I have to take lead abatement classes, pretty much the same stuff as OSHA. It's a lot.
That's bullshit
We have attachments that suck the silica out of the hole while you drill. Pretty easy, and better than dying before you're 55
My carbide scraper has a vacuum attachment. I wear a respirator almost all day.
I wish they would buy us fucking respirators
I'm surprised they don't have them for you.
No, you have to get cleared by a doctor, and my company is huge, so they say no across the board
Wow, here they make PPE available to everyone. Cover their ass kind of thing.
Are you talking respirators or dust masks?
I use a respirator. I create lead vapor. But on big job sites if your messing with vapors they make respirators available. Dust masks as well.
Damn dood
I wish I had that
It's all these laws they passed on top of OSHA bullshit. It's to much sometimes.
I've been using a spiked pipe to make holes in the fireproofing/insulation/silica yummy along the ceiling, in order to lay pipe, etc.
Very fun
I'm on a big job site, there are respirators available to those working with saws, drills, etc.
Ask for some kind of breathing protection
It's not silica. If it's a renovation, it could be asbestos, if it's not, it's some other shit that gives you cancer that they just haven't blown the whistle on yet
It's silica I'm pretty sure. New construction of an Airport terminal
Then you better get a breathing apparatus @Deleted User
The home has no lead paint and was checked out by inspectors. Unfortunately it does have the aluminum.
There is only a positive and negative for the light switch. No third wire for the green screw. Is that an issue? The old light switch I removed didn’t have a green screw.
Again, this is a CO/ALR light switch with aluminum wiring
Is it a metal box? @Deleted User
It's not a positive and negative, think of a switch like a handle on a faucet. It cuts the flow if water on or off.
Is there a metal pipe feeding the box?
@Deleted User Not even the founder of America’s strongest identitarian movement is immune to the travails of home ownership!
@John O -#7072 basically it’s more of an “in wire” and “out wire,” right? I know that’s not the correct terminology but the juice just flows through the wire, stops at the switch if it’s in off, and continues on if the switch is in on right?
Basically like a valve.
Yeah. I didn't want to get too pedantic, but technically it's not positive and negative, it's grounded and ungrounded. The switch breaks the ungrounded wire, making it so there is no path from the electric company to your light
No, the box is plastic
I saw there were ground wires when I zoomed in. Take a pic of the inside of the box, please
Ok, will do.
I know that there is a third wire in all the outlet boxes in that room
How do I tell what size gage the old wires are. They look like two different sizes. I would guess 10 and 12 guage
But I want to know for sure before I get the wire.
It should say on the insulation. That sounds like a good guess. What size is the breaker?
@Deleted User Older wires tend to be a little bigger. It should typically be 14 or 12 gauge for a residential lighting circuit. And for your positive/ negative question. A switch doesn’t need a neutral, it just makes are breaks the current path. Only things that burn electricity (have wattage) needs a neutral. One wire will be always hot and the other will be your switch leg which sends power back to your lights.
The only type of switch that needs a neutral are some occupancy sensors or a switch/outlet combo
Wait, your branch circuits are aluminum?