mechanics
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๐๐ป
@this_that5553 hey bro, all cars are the same under the hood now. I sold the same parts to Ford and GM as I did Toyota and Mercedes. Same goes for all vendors, I've had the opportunity to work in every North American auto plant.
Buy what you need, for example I'm a simple man, needed a new truck, I shopped for like 3 years looking for exactly what I need. I picked up a 2010 F150 16k miles, for $7500. I wanted an 8 foot bed single cab no power anything. Less shit to break.
Feck. Even our engine compartments are globalist.
TBH cars like Mercedes are 100% fact more $ for parts I drove a BMW before I got my silverado and the cost of parts were crazy, even for an oil chage, having to get premium gas sucked espiccally
It's all malarkey. They make Mercedes in Alabama
Except the SL, SLK, C-Class, E-Class Coupe and the GLK
made in good ole mother land germany
They do pick up work
Does everyone know about the NUMMI plant in Cali? Where GM and Toyota's were made in the same plant.
It's Tesla plant now. I only went in there once, right after they started tooling it.
yea that was old GM
they left that plant after they became a new company after the bail out
most trucks all made at fort wayne now a days brotha
Yeah it closed in 2010, there are parts manufacturers everywhere.
Are you in Northern Indiana? I worked at the Subaru and Caterpillar plants around Indy.
No man im out in the city I live in Boston I work at a large volume GM dealership
Ok so I wake up at 3 this morning to my trucks horn blaring for no reason. I don't think it was the alarm because it was one solid blast. It only stopped when I honked the horn
Anyone know whats up?
@here
Does it only happen when it's cold?
This is the first time it's ever happened
The temperature did drop last night though
Most of the parts around the horn are plastic. Cold weather can cause the plastic parts to compress which would cause the horn to go off.
You have to open up your horn to do a little modification to the horn pads.
Yeah you probably have the connections touching
@Thomas Morrow let us know what you find out.
For sure. The cold could very well have been it
@bostoneuropean glad youโre in here. I lot of people are completely in the dark about car sales
Glad to be here and trust me I๏ธ know I๏ธ see people getting fucked all day every day Iโm here to make sure it doesnโt happen to our brothers
I๏ธ will give best step by step negotiating skills hahaha you will be a better negotiator than (((them)))
@bostoneuropean I've heard that a lot of dealerships do 0% interest towards the end of the year. Is that true? If so, now is the time to buy, right?
Buy a car cash if you can dude. You never really win at a dealership, especially if you finance.
^^^
spooky_kraut#8307 Alright so hereโs the thing with 0% yes dealerships do 0% but a lot of the time they have to buy the rate down so you will loose discounts on the vehicle either way they get their money the reason dels at the end of the year are good because the manufacturer give extra rebates to get rid of left over 2017โs
I just went through a lot of leasing research. Was gonna lease instead of buy my wife a car. Seemed like leases work for nicer cars but donโt pan out for cheaper ones. Plus they hide all their fees in $ down on a lease. Seemed like it is best to never put money down on a lease
Just decided to fix the car we have for now
Well my horn went off again last night
I ended up disconnecting the battery
@Thomas Morrow can you go ahead and pop open the steering wheel?
Haven't had time to yet. If all else fails I'll just pull the fuse for the duration of winter
Hopefully I can just fix it after work today
Sounds like a good long term solution
Yeah I'd rather fix the problem but if I can't I'll just pull the fuse. Better than waking up at three in the morning and running out into the cold to disconnect the battery
I had the same problem with an old car. Had to pull the fuse out to fix it.
I ended up pulling the fuse until I can figure out how to fix it
PSA: car drivers ... trucks and SUVs fare far better in car crashes. The heavier weight forces the crash energy into other objects and reduces G forces, the large size provides big crumple zones, the higher bumpers match other trucks and make the collision at knee level rather than shoulder level. You should consider an SUV for your next vehicle purchase, it could save your life and prevent permanent injury.
Plus trucks are cool
I was thinking of getting something like Ford Escape maybe. I like the smaller SUV models out now
whats the rundown on a honda civic purchase as a tuner car
What year are you looking for? What's your goals for the car?
I was thinking Id just start with modified exhaust panel air filter VTEC and the flywheel
They are pretty good. Nip legos. But you should go Volkswagen. Sweet little hatchback.
The aftermarket is very strong for hondas. What year are you thinking? I would recommend one with a k series engine. The money to power ratio is much greater than older models engines. I'm mostly a rear wheel drive guy myself but I went through the tuner stage at one point. Volkswagens make decent cars unless you want something really fast.
@bostoneuropean โ๐ป
Honda would be cheap, if your looking for something fast and cheap I would go either dodge peon or an older Toyota Supra my buddy just built a peon srt 4 for literally only 3k thing has 450 at the rear wheels
That's sweet. Those turbo neons were pretty awesome, I just think they were ugly.
It all really depends what your after. If you want to go really fast for cheap buy a fox body mustang ls swap it with a turbo.
@bostoneuropean you mean 450 at the *front* wheels.
๐^
But back to @Deleted User original question. A civic makes a fun little car that you can modify pretty cheap. Just don't get an auto trans.
Yeah of course lol
I don't know your budget but if your plans are only bolt ons I would go with a newer than 01 because they have the k series engines. They're similar to b series but more power and more responsive to modification. And easier to tune being obd2
Get 2006 or newer. They made big safety advances with the 2006 redesign.
What's your budget and what are your goals besides bolt-on mods? You can do bolt-ons on a minivan. Do you want something that looks cool, sounds cool, sharp handling, fast cornering, fast acceleration, does it need to have cargo capacity?
That's what I was thinking as well, I'm looking at a 2013 model @Tanner - SC
Budget is 8k for mods 10k vehicle
I'd like to keep it below 4k for mods and 5k for vehicle but I have wiggle room
In my area you can pick up a low mileage 06 and newer for 5-7k easy. With 4K for mods you can put a good set of wheels and tires, coil overs, exhaust, intake, and a good tune.
As long as you do the work yourself excluding the tune.
I was going to also add I prefer Acura rsx to the civics
โAs long as you do the work yourselfโ
You must not know of Kobaโs road trip debacle.
No I haven't heard about it. Lol.
The VW Jetta/Golf of the same era has a 5cyl engine. I think it sounds amazing with an intake and exhaust, far better than a 4cyl.
Agreed. Vw are fun also. I had a pal who had a vr6 with just intake and exhaust and it sounded good and was quick.
The VR6 also sounds good. Most manufacturers are abandoning the 5cyl design and moving to turbo 4 to boost mpg for CAFE regulations. Owning a 5cyl might be a once in a lifetime opportunity, I donโt think there are any new cars made with one and might never again.
Anyone into off-road racing?
Aw man I've never raced but I used to love mudding. I had a jeep wrangler and, believe it or not, a 6-cyl Chevy Cheyenne I used to mud with!
Ya I used to be into mudding I had a chevy k2500 on 37inch tires with a built small block. Then I got into rock crawling and built a pretty impressive trail rig Cherokee. Now for some reason I'm really getting into prerunners and buggys and even lifted bugs like the different kinds of cars you see race Baja.
@JesseJames You ever see those mud rigs where they strip everything down, even taking the cooling system off, and just go full throttle for about 20 seconds?
Sounds like you're describing a mud bog rig. Most of the time the ones I've seen move the radiator to the rear to keep from clogging air flow with mud. My step brother lives in lake placid and they're really big into mudding.
Yes sir. That sucks they won't let you temp store it.
Most storage unit rental places usually rent trailer parking places around here for cheap. Maybe try that?
@Deleted User did you ever find your car?
Yeah! @JesseJames
I should be all set
What did you end up getting? Got any mods lined up yet?
@Deleted User what car did you get?
2005 Honda Civic EX
@Tanner - SC is that something you just found on the net or did someone you know do it? @Deleted User sweet how are you liking it so far?
Its alright, very economical. Going to pay off another thousand or so and close the loan, then I'll start modding it.
@JesseJames found it on the net
Glad to see you being smart about it. It will be a fun car for ya I'm sure.
Sweet! What all do you have to do to it? I had a buddy who built one into a truggy back when we were all into rock climbing.
Plugs cap wires and everything would be good for it.
Yessir. Will keep you guys posted
๐๐ผ
So, old Lawn Chief tiller dating back to the 1980s. 5 HP Briggs & Stratton 4 stroke pull start. Haven't used it in a couple of years but kept in pretty good condition. New gas, won't turn over. Bad spark plug; replaced it and tested new one, which works. Still no turn over. Removed and cleaned gas tank, line, filter, and carb. Still nothing. Carb starter fluid. Nothing.
๐ค
Any ideas?
here's the address for the manual
Model 130202-3205-01
Pull spark plug with wire still attached, pull starter, see if spark is made.
Tested with voltimiter - has juice
also zap test
But does it go ZAP
aye
Fuel tank plugged with debris?
Cleaned it, dried it
๐ค
Does it flow into the carb?
Seems to. Have to take rubber seal off to check but it's wet in there
Also, โwonโt turn overโ, you mean โwonโt fireโ?
aye
You could run the primer button 50 times with the spark plug removed and look to see if gasoline is in the cylinder.
no primer button on that model
Pull start?
aye
but that's a good point
i havent looked into the cylinder while pulling
Gas sitting for a while makes me thing somewhere between tank and cylinder the flow is plugged.
Plus, no primer to force shit through
me too but I took the carb off the tank and cleaned the line (which is just a straw)
Need to verify fuel in cylinder
And the exit of the tank could be clogged
Could have an in-tank fuel filter
kk will report back on that. 9/10 small engine issues ive ever had are fuel flow problems
it does
I took it out
Could still be plugged
At the tank exit maybe
Lack of primer is stupid
old
Old shit had primers
There's pic of fuel straw (34 I think)
Lemme check cylinder for fuel and i'll report back tomorrw
When did it last run?
Is it a 2-stoke?
4
See, I knew it wasnโt old. Old stuff was 2 stroke and had a primer.
Did you change the oil and filter?
aye
When you pull, is the resistance normal? Do you feel the compression pulses? Does the exhaust go โblop blop blopโ?
Air filter, is it good?
Yes, no, no
yes
Is the underside of the air filter good?
Like, the compartment when you remove the air filter?
clean, plus i tested w/o filter on
i feel like it's a fuel issue but i can't figure out why it would be
Something is plugged that you havenโt verified
When you remove the straw, does fuel spill out?
Well, you can't really remove the straw without taking the carb off so it's tricky to tell but when i did take the carb off, the straw was clear
๐ค
Pull spark plug and verify fuel in cylinder. Pull starter with spark plug out. Note if the resistance is any less with spark plug out. You could also unbolt the exhaust to eliminate a variable.
Ok thanks I'll check in tomorrow
Lemme ask a question I should probably already know the answer to - without a primer bulb and without a fuel pump, is it really just the piston stroke that's supposed to draw that gasoline all the way up the straw, through the carb, and into the cylinder?
Feel like that would take quite a seal
It would think its gravity fed. Try a little starting fluid in the carb
Anybody know how to check if a clutch cable is broken? Geo tracker. I went to leave this morning, pressed the clutch and heard a snap. Now it won't go into gear at all. It feels like it's been stretching the past couple weeks as its progressively gotten harder to shift. Did I answer my own question.. I've done extensive work on it, but have no experience in dealing with the clutch. Thanks.
@Sonic#0818 how much play in the pedal?
There is obviously 2 ends to the cable one at the pedal and one at the bell housing. Get some one to press the pedal in and out while you watch the other end to see if it moves the clutch fork.
Thank you. The cable's broken. I'll be replacing it. At least it's only $30 for a decent one ๐
Not bad at all.
Anybody know of any good guides for tuning up a bicycle? I want to repair my old bike, but I"m pretty sure everything needs to be replaced and both the breaks and gears are fucked up and need fixing.
I know zip about bicycles, unfortunately but I will @everyone this so we can find out who does
@Gaius Mucius Scaevola search YouTube. If you can't find anything there search google for bicycle forums.
I'm a huge bike nut, as you might see from my avatar. YouTube has every maintenance topic covered. The most popular is GCN. Art's Cyclery is also good.
<https://www.youtube.com/user/globalcyclingnetwork/>
<https://www.youtube.com/user/wwwartscyclerycom>
I learned one step at a time, researching each time a new maintenance task came up. If you're starting from square 1 and need a full tune-up, it will be far easier to bring it by a shop. Bike shops only charge like $15 an hour for their labor rate, so they're far more affordable than a car mechanic and they can get a lot done in an hour because they're experts. You could spend days trying to figure out all the various components you need to order that are compatible with your bike. And if everything is worn, it can be cheaper to buy an entirely new bicycle than to replace all of the worn components on your current bike.
@Tanner - SC I know it'll be easier to pay it to get fixed but I also really want to learn how to fix it myself, so starting from square one and fully fixing up my bike I think would be a good way to learn. Where would you personally recommend I start?
With the tune uo
@Gaius Mucius Scaevola What kind of bike? If you bought it from Walmart, it is not worth fixing. Youโll probably need chain rings, cassette, chain, tires, tubes, brake pads, wheel truing, shifter cable and housing replacement. Thatโs all before you even start โtuningโ. The wheel hubs might need a rebuild from loss of grease and gain of rust.
It could literally cost you two bicycles and weeks worth of effort to get it running like new.
I can take a picture when I get home
I know I got it off of Craigslist and it's at least a halfway decent bike
Truing wheels alone is a complicated art form.
Easiest would be to buy a whole new group set from eBay, then let the bike shop handle the wheel truing and any bearing replacements. You will need to buy tools and accessories too.
How long has it been since you last rode it?
Months, if not more than a year
I was recently added, am also a Bike Mechanic.
@ me for slow response.
Also @Tanner - SC and @Gaius Mucius Scaevola ParkTool has a YouTube channel with a video archive for almost every repair.
@Gaius Mucius Scaevola Are you still looking for some bike help?
@Freiheit - CA yeah definitely
once the weather gets a bit warmer I want to fix up my bike
not just to have a bike to ride, but to learn how to fix a bike in the process
Let me know when ready. Can give pointers.
Posting a PSA in here, please let me know if its too graphic / breaks any rules and Iโll remove. Any of you guys that are in an industrial field no doubt get your PPE policies drilled into you over and over. But itโs all too easy to neglect that when youโre working at home. Almost lost my thumb this weekend, taking apart an automatic louver/damper motor, and I neglected to relive the tension from the spring inside. Had I been wearing gloves it probably wouldnโt have been as bad.
Friday night trip to the ER for a severed tendon and artery, severed the nerve also, Dr says I probably wonโt get the feeling back, at least not fully. Stupid mistake.
I'm sorry to see it, bro. Great point, though. Just because it's at your house, doesn't mean it's a toy
Yeah, just an oversight. Could have been way worse. Could have flown up and hit me in the eye or something permanent. Or another 1/4in I would have been picking my thumb off of the garage floor
Good PSA. Call me overkill, but I wear this every time Iโm working with a knife or dremel:
Stainless Steel Mesh Hand Glove - Cut Resistant <https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NNT2F8/>
Best wishes brother. I have a buddy who was shot in the hand in Afghanistan and later sliced a tendon in his kitchen while cooking chicken. He said the pain from the bullet didnโt approach the pain from the sliced tendon @Px4stormtrooper#3883
Funny enough, the initial cut wasnโt very painful at all. I believe because of the severed nerve. It was more of a dull pain, and I still have very little sensation at all on the whole side of the thumb. It has mainly been a huge annoyance not being able to grip with that hand. Itโs damn near impossible to do anything without a thumb, even simple things, like having to reach across with my left hand to start my truck. Luckily Iโll be healed up in a week or two and itโll be a lesson learned. Just take care of yourselves gents, be safe out there
Any pointers beyond RTFM when it comes to not breaking powertools/stripping bolts/don't do X to Y because Z
Been having a time of it lately.
Also is there any kind of 'how not to be a greenie round the shop' manual beyond binging AvE vids?
Downward pressure, sharp tools.
@Freiheit - CA Why is Snap-On still in business? Does the quality of their tools really demand such a high price? All my wrenches are Craftsman, and although I don't use them but about once a week, they've stayed sharp for the 5 years I've had them. Plus, the warranty
What do you guys think of Klein?
I have them, they're electrician's tools more than anything
@Deleted User If you're just a hobbyist, do Craftsman. Klein is like $40 for a pair of pliers
@John O - Snap on has killer warranty and support but these days it's a lot of marketing.
Replacements are no questions asked, that's what you pay so much for
I'm sure the fact that they offer in house financing helps, too
There are other small task-specific companies.
No questions asked returns pisses me off. I have to pay more because some retard can't take care of his shit?
A decade later you'll appreciate it when Craftcuck no longer makes it
Buy old tools @John O - there are deals to be had.
Iโve been using a new holland set for years but Iโm in the market for another set now and want to by US made
Le farm law
@Freiheit - CA Yeah bro, I'm very aware that Craftsman is in it's way out
@John O - What kind of work do you do?
@John O -#7072 if it's just home stuff, that'd cool, I don't mean to be a rude snob. I own no Snap-On, but use it at work all the time, have my own set of other stuff for same kind of work at home.
Commercial electrical @Freiheit - CA
I see.
@Joseph McCarthy - NJ what is it you're doing?
I have a ton of pointers and advice, I've been working blue collar for the last 18 years. Grew up on a tobacco farm and I'm a tool maker by trade, so I've pretty much seen it all.
When a motor in a power tool is going out you'll start to smell ozone, and it's cake to replace the motors. You can really smell it from a drill.
If you're giving a saw hell and it's screaming obviously back off and let the blade do the cutting. Hand saws let the blade cut don't try to use your saw as a knife.
If you're stripping heads out of screws make sure you have the proper bit size, most people use a #2 phillips head for everything, it's to big for a #1 ph and it will strip, if you try to use a #2ph on a #3 ph it will strip because it's to small. Push as hard as you can on it to try and back out the screw then ease off the pressure.
If you're using a hand screw driver, mostly slot head, put the palm of you hand on the butt of the driver and apply pressure using your other hand to turn it, sounds like common sense but it's not.
If you have a stripped screw, Phillips, you can try a square bit and about half the time you'll get it out, if whatever you're working isn't wood or it will be hidden get a pair of needle nose vice grips and un screw it that way. Or you could drill it out...
Just throwing that out there. Also who cares about being green around a shop. Everything outside of machining I learned by doing, fucking up, starting all over until I got it right. Made note of mistakes and learned my lesson.
Tools are personal preference. If you're just a home owner pretty much anything you buy will get the job done. If you're going to be using that tool more than a few times a month buy something contractor grade.
Like I'm a big fan of Milwaukee linemen pliers, where John uses Klein, I cut nails all day with mine and Milwaukee seems to holds an edge longer.
@Joseph McCarthy - NJ oh and READ THE FUCKING MANUAL
You wouldn't believe how many people out there don't know the potential of their tools.
Also SnapOn, new holland, Browning are better than craftsman and popular mechanic because they use a better quality steel. Those cheap pig iron dropped forged wrenches break easy.
And I believe that SnapOn does on site repair too. I know the Milwaukee reps will do repair for cheap.
Sorry, just thinking of things.
@RevStench I'll ask you some question when I get a break from work.
@Deleted User every mechanic I know uses nothing but SnapOn and New Holland. My boss only uses New Holland wrenches.
He says they hold up longer than any other wrenches, they don't strip as fast as others
Their socket set has been on point for me for 8 years.
The case itself has cheap snaps but the wrenches drivers and sockets have been really sturdy
Haha that's all companies, crappy cases but nice tools, I have a set of Pittsburgh sockets and most are stripped out, I broke a few, so I'm actually looking for a new set now. I was at the New Holland dealer yesterday looking at their sets. Funny that we're having this conversation today. I like real world feed back when it comes to tools.
@RevStench you wonโt go wrong with em.
Snap on tools are amazing I have a small set to do work on my car
@RevStench generators and compressors at work and a project car held together by zipties and bailing wire ๐
Bought a generac powerwasher two weeks ago to clean my implements. Changed. My. life.
Hi guys. Indy tech here. 5 years experience plus 2 years of tech school.
Nice. Welcome aboard!
Awesome, welcome bro @Justice - WI
No start. Replaced battery, plugs and wires, coil pack, camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. P0340 on MIL. 01 Caravan 2.4L 4-cyl. @here
Did you check all your contacts to make sure theyre clean?
Is the starter just not cranking?
Could be ignition switch
@sigruna14 no start how? Wonโt turn over? No juice at all? Somewhere in between?
Cranks but doesn't run.
Fuel pump was replaced recently and I hear it whine when I turn key to on so don't think it's that.
@Deleted User If you're talking about wires then hell no they ain't clean, there's oil everywhere.
Maybe try cleaning off the contacts to make sure that the oil isnt impeding the flow of current
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