#mechanics (Discord ID: 322712586741088256) in MacGuyver - Skills & Academics, page 1
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Welcome to the Mechanics text channel! This channel is dedicated to instructing you on how to properly maintain your car, your motorcycle, or even your lawn mower. Once a week, I will post a lengthy text, with photos, on how to check/change your oil, regulate your tire pressure, change a tire correctly, replace brake pads, and generally keep your vehicles in proper working order. More complex things such as Carburetor rebuilds and tunes will come further down the line. This text channel will start with very simple, yet handy info dumps, such as how to tell the difference between 10W-40 motor oil, and 5W-30. The vehicles that will be used as examples are both of my personal modes of transport.
This is my 2016 Yamaha YZF-R3, nicknamed the R3KT R3, or “Rizzo”. This bike is basically Fisher Price Baby’s First Sports Bike. She has a inline two cylinder, 321cc, liquid cooled engine that produces 35 foot pounds of torque, and 45 horsepower. The transmission is a six-speed sequential. This bike was designed and built for commuting as well as canyon carving and small track usage. She will be used for the majority of engine related info dumps, both because of the small size and simplicity of the engine, and most of the information can be taken and applied to cars in one way or another. She’s sitting at roughly, 6,100 miles and is due for major service at the 7,000 mile milestone. I will document all services done at post them here. Some motorcycle specific information such as chain adjustments and wheel alignment will be posted occasionally. If you own a motorcycle yourself, this should come in handy. If I am traveling from Yuma to either Phoenix or San Diego by myself and not planning on bringing anything sizable back, I will take this.
And here we have my Third Generation (2012) Ford Focus SE, also known as the shitbox, or the mommy mobile. She’s a little rough around the edges visually thanks to a couple of wooden planks sitting on Interstate 8, but functional nonetheless. I clocked over 45,000 miles this last year alone, putting it just past 100,000 miles, so the wear is far more advanced than others of the same make and model on the road. This model specifically is the five door hatchback. We’ll be using this car for some basic essentials, like tire changes. She has a 2 liter Duratec engine that produces 159 horsepower and 149 foot pounds of torque. This same engine was shared with some Mazda cars such as the Mazda 3 of the same year. It has the 5-speed manual transmission, which will be surely be used in the info dump on how to drive a manual transmission. This car is designed exclusively for commuting and travel.
I will also soon have access to a project car. This isn’t an exact photo of it, but it is the same make a model. A friend purchased a 1991 NA6 Mazda Miata a while back and they are interested in building it up as a track car. The car has been nicknamed Milo (not because of THAT Milo, but jokes and bantz are appreciated). The car comes with the 1.6 Liter engine that produces 114 horsepower and 100 foot pounds of torque. Some 1.6 engines came from the factory already drilled and tapped for the oil lines required for turbocharging, at this moment I am not sure if it has that specific 1.6L poweplant. It also has the 5-speed manual transmission. This car was purchased off a local ricer who put the car in rough shape due to mechanical negligence and overall stupidity, this car will be used if and when I discuss how to spot improperly installed items as well as some more performance related topics that will come later.
I currently work an erratic schedule, as of this week and next, my work hours are 12am-8am Mountain Standard Time Wednesday through Sunday. When my work schedule is changed, I will ping this channel and let you all know immediately. I will also post my work schedule. Info dumps are scheduled for Mondays in between 9am and noon MST. A Do Not Disturb status means that I am either at work, away from my computer, or asleep, an Online status means that I am open for questions.
I will also be taking a look at other items with that involve engines and their accessories as well, such as lawn mowers, fuel systems and carburetors.
Also, any info you personally know is also appreciated. While I am here to offer some guidance and expertise, you guys can and should assist each other as well. We all know teamwork makes the dream work and I look forward to helping Identity Evropa amass an army of well maintained shitboxes.
Footnote: If you are interested in getting a motorcycle, I am also open to questions related to such. I will be more than happy to provide someone the recommended resources to help bring them into the motorcycling world. All gear related questions as well as “Is this bike a good starter bike” questions should be DM’d to me to prevent off topic clutter. As we all know, nothing shouts Activism more than ripping a fat wheelie down a city street.
Thanks, fam. 👍🏻
Also, if you are having any issues chasing some electrical gremlins around your cars wiring, we also have some in house electricians. I can help you with plugging in, unplugging, and where to route wiring, but propper ampage, voltage and insulation may be better handled by guys like @Deleted User and @Lebens
I had one of the very first Miatas, in red. 1990.
The oil filter is in an annoying location.
The oil filter on a friend's 2000 Pontiac Sunfire was worse. I still shudder when I think about it.
Footnote: Read your vehicle’s owner's manual. Do it, seriously.
Motor oil! We all know what it is, we (hopefully) all know all vehicles on the road need it. But what do those numbers on the bottle mean? What’s the difference between 10W-40 and 0W-50? Synthetic, Conventional? What’s the difference? What do you mean I should do an oil change before the winter starts? These are all pretty commonly asked questions when the topic of motor oil is discussed. All of these are going to be answered, and you will be able to impress your normie friends with your motor oil knowledge.
You should always have a few quarts of the same brand and type of motor oil currently in your car in your garage at all times, you never know if your car springs a bit of an oil leak and you need to replace the lost oil before you have the time to find and fix the leak.
To start off with, read your vehicle’s owner’s manual. No really, go read it. All of it.
There are a quite a few different kinds of motor oil. Synthetic, Synthetic blend, High-Mileage, and Conventional motor oil.
All are pretty self-explanatory, but we’ll go over them just in case. Doesn’t hurt to know the difference!
Synthetic oil is chemically engineered in a lab before being mass produced. The molecules in the motor oil are far more aligned and suited for high temperatures. If you drive a performance oriented car, synthetic motor oil is probably going to be what you’re looking for.
Synthetic Blend motor oil is a mix of both synthetic and conventional motor oils. This oil is specifically used for its anti-oxidation properties and it’s good for low temp operations. I use Blend in my lawn mower.
High Milage is pretty self explanatory. If your car has more 75,000 miles on its’ odometer, high-milage is going to be for you.
Conventional motor oil is pretty much what it says on the tin, or bottle. This is what’s typically recommended for newer cars, and for areas where there isn’t a huge difference in ambient temperatures.
So what do those fancy numbers mean on the bottle? The most commonly used motor oil in my area is 10W-40. For some background information, the climate of where I am is typically a mild winter, with an extremely hot winter. Winter’s typically don’t dip below mid 40F at night, while during the summer the highs here can reach up to 120F! Deserts are weird like that, 10W-40 can generally handle the extreme difference in outside temperatures here.
If you live in a place where it regularly gets below freezing during the winter, you have plenty of options.
The lower the first number, the better suited said motor oil is for colder temperatures, remember that.
For me, I use Pennzoil 10W-40 in both my R3 and my Focus. For my gas powered lawn mower, I just use gas station brand off the shelf blend stuff. I change the oil on the R3 every 3,000 miles, and on the Focus every 5,000. The mower gets a change every year.
So, that first number on the front there. The first number on a bottle of motor oil is always going to mean the viscosity. The lower the number, the less viscous the fluid is. While the higher the number, the more it is. To put things simply, the lower number means that the motor oil is more water like, while the higher number means the oil is far more thicker. So 20W motor oil is going to be thicker than 0W. If I ever find out anyone of you refer to higher viscous motor oil as “thicc” I will find you.
When I first started getting into mechanics, I was taught that the W after that first number stood for weight. Hey, it made sense for me at fourteen. But guess what, it doesn’t stand for weight at all. That W actually stands for winter. The first number with the W right next to it will mean that the motor oil will hold a different viscosity right after startup, or on a cold morning.
The second number coincides with that first number. While the first number refers the viscosity upon the engine starting, the second number refers to the high temperature rating for it. If you constantly bang through your gears on your way to work, or carve up the canyons on weekends a higher secondary number is going to be better for you. If you live in an area like I do, where it gets ridiculously hot outside, that secondary number is going to be beneficial to you as well.
You should always go by what your owner’s manual says. If the owner’s manual says use a Synthetic Blend 10W-30, or 0W-20, use it. If you have an older vehicle, or live in a place with odd temp fluctuations, it’s best to do your research before you do an oil change. Just because 10W-40 works for me, doesn’t mean it’s going to be an exact fit for you.
The W stands for winter because an engine is almost always going to be cold when it's first started up. It's equating cold with winter.
SAE stands for Society of Automotive Engineers. These guys are behind the rating system for motor oil.
I like my motor oil T H I C C
Ok I got a question. My truck makes a click noise every 20 -25 seconds. Ice timed it. Don't matter if I'm sitting there idling or driving but it happenes at those times. Sounds like it's coming from the engine compartment.
That sound like anything to you. I'm broke so I'm afraid to bring it in.
This is my life
May I ask for the make, model and what engine you've got in that truck?
Ford ranger 6 cylinder
The 3.0 Liter engine?
And you said it was happening during both idling when driving. Does it get worse when the engine is under load or is it a level clicking coming from the engine no matter the RPM range?
@Yuma County I have a question for you, I have a 2006 malibu. and my catalytic converter is really clogged(it's miss firing and I'm fixing that as well), it's starting to kick, like a tranny would, and it's heating up to over 200 degrees in like 5 minutes. So I'm trying to pull the damn thing out and I got the shield off and all the bolts except the one on the underside of the cat that holds that section of exhaust from shaking all over the place. It's the one that holds the cat/manifold to the block. My problem is I don't have an impact, and I can't use a breaker bar because you can't get enough ass on it to even start to get tension. Any ideas? I sprayed with cutting fluid, PB blaster, break cleaner and I can't get it to move at all.
It's a tight space between the firewall and the engine
I had the same issue working on a 1991 Toyota Pickup.
Exhausts are tricky to work on if you don't have a professional lift in your garage.
I was about to say I dont have a lift or life would be easy ahah
Lifts always make life easier.
my old '91 had a four clinder engine and I ended up blowing a hole in the midpiple. Seperating it from the O2 sensor and the miffler was easy, but seperating it from the headers was a pain in the ass.
Usually those bolts see a lot of wear and tear.
Does your Malibus exhaust system have a mid-pipe section or is it just in two pieces?
Typically most exhaust come in threes.
Headers, mid, and muffler
oh damn, from the engine the manifold has the cat attached to it then it has a flange that I can seperate it from the muffler
just 1 cat. 4 cyclinder
yeah this thing was made during the years they cut every corner to save money to save the company
I would honestly recomend trying to hunt down an impact wrench fore sure. That doesn't mean give up on trying to get it yourself, however.
yeah that's what I was thinking too.
there's just not enough room to work
Be extremely careful if you're going to keep trying to unstick that bolt.
worn bolts can sheer, and then you're in some trouble.
for sure, I was going to drill it out and then just retap it, but I cant get enough force behind a drill to even make a dent.
My end goal is to pull out my cat and knock out the honeycomb and then reinstall it. haha
I found you a reconditioned impact wrench through Milwaukee. You probably wouldn't have a ton of use for a brand new one and I'm sure you don't have a spare $200-$400 laying around. I would keep this tab open just in case all other attempts fail.
You mean the honey comb filter or the clog?
I'm assume that honeycomb is clogged. I've had a misfire for years now, and I assumed the cabon clogged the honeycomb. It's throwing a P0420 code.
I would recomend that you clean it rather than get rid of it. I know some cars are pretty stingy with their exhaust systems.
@Mark Vandal that would rule out lifters and major engine components at least.
Really? We don't have emission checks here, so I figured I'd just bust it out. But I'll try to clean it first, and if that doesn't work I'll try busting it out. I'm pretty lucky that a new one only costs $455. So things could be worse haah
It has more to do with your cars ECU and not emissions. When I took my mid-pipe and muffler off I drove that old pick up straight piped for a week. The truck's ECU didn't know what the fuck to do and retarded the engine to compinsate there being zero back pressure.
Unless you know for sure the filter wouldn't fuck up your ECU, I would just go with cleaning it.
oh right on, I didn't think of that. But you do this stuff everyday, I appreciate you bro
Keep trying on that bolt my friend, if you have an extra $100 lying around some time I would highly recomend that impact wrench.
I do, I probably going to order it.
I saved up a grand thinking a new cat would cost around that price. so I'm doing ok ahah
They're pretty nifty tools to have. Instead of struggling for hours on a stuck bolt, you can just Shoah it right off.
And then shoah it right back on too
I usually keep one handy if something's giving me issues.
yeah I need one, now my car is 11 years old and it's starting to have age problems. But as much as I hate this car I'll give it respect, this is the first major issue with it in 11 years. I had a vent canister solenoid go out, but nothing major. So an impact would be an useful tool have around.
>you can over torque bolts to commie cars to round them out so the wheels can no longer come off
don't ask me how I know that.
yeah for sure. I had a buddy do that years ago when we first started driving. He was so worried that his wheel was going to come off he cranked them down, and the next flat he got he was screwed
been there, done that
gotta learn somehow
Anyone have any experience with rotary motors?!?
Wankel 13B rotary, right?
Anything wrong with it?
12a o believe the 13b is the rx8s
And Everything , I've been thinking about a swap or just letting the thing go
Apex Seals maybe?
Hey goys! I have a question about my car. For like the past 6 months I have been getting the low tire pressure light roughly every two weeks. When I check my tires, all of them are around 25-27 psi and I'll fill them back up to around 30-35 psi. It's like clockwork that every two weeks my tires lose a steady amount of pressure, where I can pretty much predict the exact day my pressure light is going to go on again. If there was low pressure in only one tire, I'd expect it to be the tire - but since it's all of them I think it's something else. I have alloy rims and figured that maybe the tires weren't installed properly. Any thoughts? I don't want to buy new tires if the issue might be something else. Any thoughts?
How old are they brother? If age is causing wear, you can expect multiple tires to slow-leak at the same rate.
Take a bottle of soapy water and squirt them down. It will bubble up where your leaks are at no matter how slow a leak is.
Also, I never buy new tires. I have a tire shop in Louisville that I go to and they keep used tires. $35 for a tire, mounted and the ruined one thrown out. It took a while to find a tire shop ran by white boys but they are still out there.
@Steve - NJ do what @Nick E.#1856 suggested. Any and all leaks will show with soapy water. It sounds like it may be a beading issue if all four of them are bleeding air like that. Did you have all of your tires replaced at a similar time by the same place?
@Deleted User they are about 3.5 years old. The tread is still in decent shape since I don't commute very far. @Yuma County I did have my tires done all at once so it is likely also a factor. If it's in all tires though I would think it's something to do with their grip on the rims or something. @Deleted User I never knew people could expect to get much out of used tires either. Thanks guys for being helpful
If your tires are that old it may be because of that as well.
Does anyone still recap tires? or is that a thing of the past?
probably showing my age with that question ahah
More or less a thing of the past.
I should probably just get new tires at this point
the bead is where the tire meets the wheel and forms a seal to keep the air pressure in more or less.
Older tires have a bit of an issue holding a bead when they age.
I'll have to mention that when I go to my mechanic. Hopefully they can give me a few options. Thanks again
Some of your alloy rims may have a little oxidation that forms around the seal which requires a little cleaning off whenever they break the tire down. I've seen a couple of rims that just would not hold air because of the pitting caused by this
I have an overheating problem with my 2005 Honda Civic. I replaced the thermostat, replaced the coolant, and had an oil change but I am still overheating when I idle for a minute or two, usually after driving 30 miles or so. When I turn on the heater to cool my engine off it doesn't blow out any hot air which leads me to think it could be my water pump. Any suggestions?
If the heater core is not producing any heat it kind of points to a circulation issue. You may want to go back and check that thermostat make sure it's in right side up and not in a bind sometimes you could get a defective one from the store. You may want to check the thermostat and or electric fans that cool the radiator make sure they are cycling off and on
The thermostat and fan seems just fine
Have you checked your water pump in the last day? @Honneur et Patrie
I'm not very experienced when it comes to working on cars, but do any of you goys know how difficult it would be to change out a purge valve in an evap system?
What make and model?
It's an 07 VW Beetle.
I know VW can be a pain to work on, especially for someone like me who is very inexperienced haha
@Atten - TX#2465 P0455 code? It's cake. Your purge valve is only held on by 2 clamps. You have to remove the shield/cover that covers your engine and it's right on top, you can't miss it. The only tool you'll need is the screwdriver to disconnect the air intake hose from that shield/cover.
You can try and clean the old one and see if that gets rid of the light.
save yourself a whole 20 bucks ahah
Yep, that's the code. I appreciate the advice, I'll give it a look here soon. Apparently the issue is the valve isn't closing so I might just replace it. Thanks a lot, brother!
Typically you'll know they've gone bad if you begin to smell gas. Best of luck!
@here the next blurb will probably come up 4pm-5:30pm MST, I'm trying to avoid the peak heat of today.
It's super easy, but when you take off the old one, tap it on a white piece of paper and see if any little black chunks come out. If they do, it's your charcoal canister falling apart internally and clogging the valve, and a new valve will get clogged before too long. The charcoal canister is behind the right rear wheel, it's easy enough to replace but the wheel has to come off
Well before I got to that I needed to replace my two headlight bulbs. After doing that, neither the low beams or high beams work. I'm not sure what's causing it, as I only replaced the two low beam bulbs.
Check your fuses. That's where a good portion of electrical issues lie.
Were the new bulbs OEM?
The beetle headlights are a bitch. Does your headlight assembly have a connector on the back that you had to detach after you pulled the assembly out? Or does it just seat into the connector at the back when you lock the headlight in place? Try pushing on the headlight with the ignition and lights on, I bet the low beam will come on. It's hard to get them to seat correctly and lock in place
I've checked the fuses and they seem to be alright, I'll have to take a closer look after work. The assembly just has the connector at the back that pushes back in, so I'll also try giving them a good push again to see if that helps.
There should be a very audible click when they're locked in fully. Make sure you start with the little metal rod in the fully unlocked position, otherwise you can break the plastic headlight bucket
I'm glad you said something, I gave it a push and it came on for a second but didn't stay in place. I didn't even remember to unlock that rod again.
But I'm thinking that should be it, thanks a lot to all of you!
It's a dumb design.
Seriously, I've never had so much trouble with something as simple as a low beam bulb change. Now on to changing the purge valve and the connectors for my turn signals...
@Atten - TX#2465 make sure when you're done to have everything well insulated, even if you have to wrap it in electrical tape like a nig. I blew a fuse on my bike because I didn't wrap a connection and then washed my bike.
What does it mean if my car just loses power in it's accelerator? It does thing where it'll drive fine, then slowly lose power and eventually I'll have no power at all in the accelerator, but the vehicles interior lighting is all still on. If I turn the whole car off and back on it'll very temporarily fix the issue (for like 2 minutes). If I downshift I get a little bit more output from the engine but it tapers off (it has a lot of initial output, then none very quickly).
It's only ever happened 2x
There's so many electrical things on these cars nowadays it's going to be hard to track down. When it has no power if you put it in neutral and Deuce the gas and see if the engine still runs smoothly if it does it could be something in the transmission. The Transmissions are electronically controlled. You may have to try a little plane with it when it happens put it in neutral see if the engine run smoothly if not it's in the ignition system possibly
One thing you can do is take it to your local auto parts place and ask them to pull the codes on it. If your check engine light pops on while you're driving it shows that there is a problem and they can pull the codes and tell you if there are any issues
Cool, I guess I'll just play Russian roulette with it until I can find a mechanic who knows what's wrong with it. Both of the mechanics I've been to so far have don't have any leads because it isn't chronically recurring
Well if your check engine light is on they can pull the Colts. If not like I said when you are driving it and it happens try to see if it's in the actual motor or just that the car won't pull itself. The actual mechanic on this channel could probably give you a little more information. He's pretty good at his job
@Deleted User could you explain the issue a bit further? I know you mentioned earlier in another server you were having a transmission leak. If it's a power delivery issue on top of your transmission leak, that's a good place to focus your attention.
It sounds like a fuel delivery issue to be completely honest. If it's happened only twice, it's definitely something to keep your eye on.
Basically I'll be driving and lose power on the accelerator. There will be no output at all. If I stop the car and restart it I can get up to like 3rd, maybe 4th gear but lose power again with 5 minutes. It sorts itself out within a couple of hours
Your accelerator wouldn't happen to go limp when this happened, right?
I really want to say that is has something to do with your car's fuel delivery system.
I would start with your injectors and start working your way back to the fuel filter. If it throws a code, getting that checked would help immensely.
Im not really sure what you mean by limp, it becomes sort of soft almost, but soft in the sense that the engine is unresponsive
but it doesnt go limp, I have to apply a normal amount of pressure to push it down
@Yuma County it might have a code but theres no light, it could be fuel delivery, but I buy highest octane. Not to say it isnt fuel delivery but doesnt that minimize the chance that you get a shitty batch>
The highest grade possible just means you'll have a lower chance of misfiring in the simplest sense. Check to see if it's throwing a code, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue for sure. It could be a couple things really, bad injectors, or your wiring system between your accelerator.
Between your accelerator and engine.
@Deleted User does the engine die (0 rpm) or just lose power while running still?
Never checked, that's a very good question
If it happens again, watch the rpm and see if it dies, if it falls up and down erratically, or if it remains steady while there's no power
I would guess fuel pump, but without knowing more or scanning the ecm it's hard to say. Could be a MAF sensor too
(Or brake fluid)
Just had the brakes bled and fluid replaced mid last month If that makes any difference
Happened both before and after that was done
@Deleted User could be your alternator starting to fail or a bad fuseable link.
I would say get a voltameter and test your alternator cables both to the starter and battery. If they are good take your alternator to advanced auto parts and have them test it. They may be able to do it with it on the car. Either way it's free. Start with the the obvious and free stuff. Also have them read your codes while you're there.
I was memeing about the brake fluid, sorry.
Doubt it's an alternator, if the battery voltage dropped enough to kill the engine it wouldn't start up again minutes later. Also you would see a battery light probably. What year is your car? We're talking about the mini, right?
I've had it happen. Just saying. Either way he needs to get his codes read at the very least. Like you recommended.
you're right about the battery light though so scratch that
Well, who knows what the parameters are for tripping the light or whether the circuit is working, I've seen bad alternators not set off the light. We can't really help without pulling the codes or doing some testing, unfortunately.
@Deleted User go get the damn ecm codes. Now I'm intrigued.
This should prove interesting if not entertaining. I know Mini's have their issues, I wonder how comical this one will be.
So just to add to tools needed for any garage. I think jack, jack stands, drain pan, oil filter wrench, 4 way lug wrench, spark plug sockets... that is a really good start to 90% of what most people will be doing on their car.
☝🏻 this too
So short update, the electrical system on the mini is completely fucked. The stereo/speaker module died on me and I Guess when They went to hook their computer up to the car it somehow fried the foot module so the car is messed up in all sorts of ways. Brake lights stuck on, headlights stuck on, turn signals don't work, driver side window is stuck down, locking system doesn't work
Runs fine though, had an oil leak repaired and it sounds much better now
They as in the mechanic I went to
It's still under warrantee (somehow) so I'm going to have a dealership fix it
I don't want to be the poor scrub who has to chase those electrical demons around a mini
Yeah my car has some sort of Phantom or something
It constantly fails catastrophically and either nothing or everything is ever wrong with it when I take it to the mechanic
A lot of these newer cars use common ground points for all of the computerized equipment. For a long time the Cadillacs had real issues with these. The grounds would become loose or corroded and basically causes chaos with the electrical system in a computer's. I'm not sure on your make of vehicle but it just goes to show how one little thing can cause everything to go Haywire
Hey I got an auto body question, figured best to post here. I got a few rust spots on the roof of my tuck. Was gonna: -Sand down with orbital sander/sandpaper -Clean and prime -Spot paint with autobody paint Does this sound good to any of you goys that know about paint jobs?
Sorry for the weird formatting was trying to make a bullet point list
Sounds like you got it.
Is anyone well versed in motorcycles?
What about them?
Just got a kawasaki ninja 500 and had some questions about the brakes
What issues are you having
No issues yet, I just done even know how to tell if I should change the fluid and when it's time to change the brakes
You can use brake fluid testing strips to see if your fluid is still serviceable. Also, you can look at your brake pads, if they look to be getting thin or almost touching the rotor, its time to replace them.
If you feel pulsations when you apply the brakes, that's a sign its probably time for new rotors, and most likely pads.
Okay, I'll probably have more questions soon, I have changed the oil and the coolant already and I'm getting my motorcycle endorsement on Friday, I failed the damn written test twice:( I'm motorcycle dumb I guess haha
I still need to get mine, I need a bike so i have something thats gets better than 12mpg. Lol
That's really all I drive down here, my motorcycle
Its not usually motorcycle weather where im from back in WA so i never bothered. But here in the south its almost a year round option.
Yes exactly why I got one
my bike gets like 50mpg when I ride normally, 70 when i cruise at 70mph on the freeway.
@Yuma County#0597 hey bro just curious how's your CDL training going?
is this road legal?
or a good deal?
It's legal, as long as the lights work. You have to be able to clear a speed bump, all the lights and safety equipment has to be on the car and working. Nothing can be hanging off it.
If the frame isn't bent and that's just body damage, for the price it's a good deal.
Is there a topical anesthetic available over the counter?
@Deleted User It looks like there are a few, but from what I've seen a cream called "LMX" may be the strongest. It looks like it's available at Walmart, Walgreens, and CVS over the counter.
Thanks brother. I meant to post this in <#322712621503479809> lol but you've answered my question so no need to move it
@Deleted User concerning that wrecked car. If it is in your state an your purchasing it is one thing but typically if you purchase a car from out of state and it has to be brought into your state they will have to inspect it and all of the lights and turn signals Horn cetera will have to work in order for you to get a title on it in your state
And just a note, most newer cars have their oil filter on top of the engine
And newer cars have an inner cylinder that is the filter with an exterior lid that you do not dispose of, just snaps onto the lid, very easy
So you're just changing out the filter element, then?
The process is very simplistic and avoids an unnecessary mess from dripping oil
yeah, I like it. I haven't encountered that yet but it makes sense.
o-ring gets replaced as well, comes in the box
that just sits on the lid
@Deleted User Why not connect your neg cable to the dead neg terminal?
I was always taught it was safer to do it that way.
Supposedly there's a non-zero chance of a battery explosion if you connect directly to the terminal.
That will severely hamper your game
Ah ok gotcha
Yeah, setting a girl's car on fire is not a good ice-breaker.
When the lady asks you why you're not connecting to the terminal, just give her the Marlboro man look, a quick nod, and continue with what you're doing.
That brings your chances from ~85 up to 100%
It's also a good time to wink I hear.
"Why aren't you connecting to the terminal?" Wink. Start car. Game on.
Hmmm, see that's tricky
Keep in mind I've been married for 13 years so I'm way out of that frame of mind, but here's my perspective:
You can't go wrong either way, BUT
jump-starting a car puts you in the frame of a savior.
For that window of time, you're more than a man
You're resurrecting a dead machine and helping a lady in distress.
If you wink, you're revealing a human element
If you barely acknowledge her instead and act like nothing can disrupt your focus and attention on this "critical" task, you don't break that frame
But again, I've been married since Christ was a corporal so I could be rusty on this matter. 😃
I use my batteries from my power tools to jump cars. I have 2 pieces of copper wire I stick into the slots in the battery and attach the other ends to the terminals. Works the first time every time.
That's how you do it.
The first time someone told me to do that I thought they were messing with me for a laugh. But when the engine turned over I was dumbfounded.
I never would have thought of it, but it makes sense!
Anyone know how to change a tire on a motorcycle
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