The guy at auto zone knew exactly what problem I was having, I upgraded the spark plugs as well

If this ends up not working I'm going to swap the ignition coil on cylinder 6.

@John O - Kawasaki Ninja 500

@Deleted User what engine do you have in that Ford?

302. Same as the Mustangs

Thanks, looking for related TSB's now.

Ty i appreciate it

No present TSB's for that specific concern brother.

Yours is a one piece drive shaft, correct?

Yes

have the other gentleman look at it when you both meet, if he can't solve it grab those Chassis ears and I'll walk you through vibration orders to get it under wraps.

Ok sounds good. Ty

@here no power to my bike. Battery is hooked up and it's reading well

Have you tried not crashing it?

@JohnStrasser Are you cables connected to the ignition sequence/not grounding out?

I think everything is connected im double checking

If it ain't the battery it's the wires.

How do I identify which wires are bad?

It's a damn good question. I'm not very experienced with electric, but if it were me, I'd probably start sampling the wires with the mulitmeter at various points around the vehicle's electrical circuit. Before and after starter, before + after alternator, whatever, try to find where there stops being electricity.

I don't even know if that would work though. We need somebody who knows electric better than I do.

Use your voltimeter the same way you already are, except instead of connecting to + / - connect to the wires themselves. Of course, the battery wires themselves should be pretty easy to inspect visually.

Does it need to be on? Or would they be live just connected to the batteries

They would be live all the way to the ignition switch

Okay

Do that and then check for 12v at the ignition switch also. Does it do anything at all? Normally if your battery is good and cables good but everything is dead it's a fuse and/or relay.

@Fvtvresoldier JohnStrasser#3954 identify the wires that lead to an ignition source and then to the starter. I am not too versed with motorcycles but testing power flow is the same for all DC circuits. What kind of bike and what year is it? For a generic example I'll give you some pointers.

Do an available voltage test through all points of that circuit, to include the ground.

Go from battery positive to your starter switch. Back probe into your connector for that switch and make sure you have source voltage. On output of that, it should lead into a relay control circuit. (Relays use low current to control high current). If you engage that switch you should have a source voltage going into the control side and mV on the ground side of that control side. on the controlled end of that relay you should have source voltage on the input end and mV on the output end while the circuit is disengaged.
Depressing the switch (if the control side of the circuit is working properly) should allow source voltage to flow through it to the starter.

A rule of thumb for power flow: If you don't have voltage what you should, you have an open in the circuit. If you have less voltage than you should, you have high resistance. If you have voltage where you shouldn't then you have an open on the ground side of that circuit.

This excludes short to grounds or a short to power.

This should be of some help in electrical diagnosis for everyone here.

For what it's worth I believe on a motorcycle the ignition switch is going to bring either the fuse box or a relay of some kind into play which is going to control all the power on the motorcycle

Ignition switch has 12v going to it, all the wires have at least some power

What you might be getting is some false readings from your digital meter. You may have to disconnect the wiring harness or connector from the ignition that is going to the loads or the fuse box. Since it is a negative ground situation if you're using the vehicle for your testing point you could get some deceptive readings through your meter. You're going to have to isolate the ignition switch output. I'm assuming that these voltage is leaving the ignition switch are very low in value

Assuming the ignition switch test good the power should leave the switch and go to a fuse box or a relay possibly controlling the power to the fuse box

The problem could be that relay which is not calling for the fuse box to energize

Bingo^

@JohnStrasser what are the values?

those numbers tell the tale of what is going on in the circuit

If we know what they're supposed to be. Of course the switch should be 12v.

Have you tried to roll start it by chance?

Can't roll start

It was a hlaf a volt to a volt in the wires

Taking a brake from the frustration to shower then heading to work. I did enlist some help from on of my local goys

Hopefully he'll figure it out

It almost has to be the ignition or ignition switch relay

Oh gotcha. Have you checked fuses? First thing to do on any electrical problem is check fuses. Just use a test light to both sides of the fuse.

All the fuses I could find were good

Everything goes to the ignition switch or relay

I fix the electrical problem and now the carburetor is leaking gas

What was the electrical problem?

There is a blown fuse hiding that I couldn't find until today

It was just barely blown to it was crazy I should have taken a picture before I threw it away

When I first took it out it looked fine

Where is your carb leaking from?

and how?

I couldn't quite see I had to leave for work right after I got done fixing the electrical problem. But it look like it was from the bottom of the carb

I'm going to look at it more tomorrow I disconnected the gas tank to avoid any further leakage

I did clean the carbs and take everything apart so maybe I didn't tighten something

How's the gasket? A lot of times that's just a worn gasket at the top of the carb. The liquid follows the curve of the carb and makes it look like a leak from the bottom. What do you think @Brenten.Ryan-AZ ?

Great glad you fixed it. That's why I say any electrical problem check your fuses first. And barley blow is blown as long as it isn't solid the current can not travel through it. When you took the carbs apart did you replace the gasket? Those paper gasket are made for one time use only if you take it apart you need to replace it.

@everyone I am an industrial Mechanic in automotive industry that makes bearing for BMW, Volvo, and many more. Currently in school to finish mechanical engineering program. If I can be assistance to anyone just let me know.

>german cars

There is nothing worse than having to work on a German car.

They build those bastards in such a way as to make it hard for you.

Knowing how to work on them is very profitable though

I'm a bmw fiend specializing in e9x chassis. But also have experience with many others. If anyone needs any imput on bavarias finest, Holla

@Deleted User Whew, a carb related question

Honestly the only carb I’ve had my hands on was on a 07 CR125R

Honestly I don’t remember any gaskets on her, changing jet settings was 2 simple screws on the top as the throttle cable enters the carb body, and I don’t remember any gasket that seated there.

I have a 2005 Honda civic dx and my check engine came on flashing and my engine was running rough and sort of sputtering. I've been having problems with it running hot. Hoping it's not a blown headgasket or worse.

Recently replaced my thermostat a second time. It was running perfectly until i drove about 90 miles and began to have problems with the engine heating up again.

Anyone versed on hho???

@Honneur et Patrie Have you noticed a change in the amount of coolant present in the reservoir?

@Honneur et Patrie#8729 get a scanner to pull that code to begin with. It’s a good starting point to see what your ECM / PCM is saying (a general area of concern)

As much as I don’t care for uh oh zones (Autozone) or O’Reilly’s auto stores they can pull the code for you for free.

If you get that code, I (or any other tech here) can help go from there.

One of the obvious tell tale signs of a blown head gasket is oil in the coolant, milky oil (coolant in oil), and white smoke from your exhaust.

If it is a head gasket they aren't horrible to change on honda four cylinders

german cars were made to secure the existance of mechanics

@here this is what my bike sounds like

Clean the carbs put some seafoam in it and it still sounds super strange

Unfortunately it won’t let me open the file

Me either.

If your comfortable with it, you can send it to me via email or Facebook.

You’re

[email protected]

Shiiit hold up

@Deleted User hey there brother, did you resolve the issue with your truck?

No. I havent had a chance to take it anywhere yet.

the wheels on my car get real hot and smell funny, is that because the wheel bearings need to be regreased or the wheel bearings are shot or what, they dont sound like theyre grinding at all. i think i need to bleed my brakes because the pedal goes all the way to the floor and it feels like theres no fluid pressure in there

i drive for like 15 mins and it smells like somethings burning and the metal on my wheels are super hot to the touch

@Brenten.Ryan-AZ weigh in for me on this if you can

no rush

Loaded did you recently get new wheels, or do any service on your brakes recently?

Yes i took off the wheels and took off the brakes to see why they were acting up, and put them back on just as they were since the pads were fine

Yea concerning the weird smell and excessive heat, I would pull those hub assemblies off and inspect them for pivoting and scortching. If there are any signs of either of those two replace both sides of the vehicle’s hubs.

For your spongy brakes check your fluid and bleed the air out of them if you are suspecting that there is air in the line. Check your lines and fittings for leaks as well.

Thanks ill start on that and see where i get hung up

@loadedbrush#4901 any luck so far bud?

No, ive got a feeling its gona be a whole can of worms so i havent cracked it open yet, gotta wrangle some funds together before i crack the egg and start taking things apart. just watched a few youtubes to get a plan of attack

my entire passenger underside of the car is covered in oil and it seems to be slowly leaking multiple fluids. i have to put a quart of oil in it every 10 or so days

Oh yea, that will be a bit of work. Lol

What kind of vehicle is it?