#electrician (Discord ID: 322712495108128779) in MacGuyver - Skills & Academics, page 2
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@Havamal sorry I've been at work. If you go to the water heater and disconnect the two wires that go into the water heater and feed it and cap them off and turn the breaker on if it holds and does not trip then your heating element is bad. I don't recall exactly how much they are but you drain the water out take a big wrench or socket remove the heating element and then reverse the process and turn it back on
I've taken the POS and neg off the element and tried to flip the breaker and it still is tripped.
I didn't cap them, though
@John O - a lot of contractors will continue to blow smoke up your ass as long as you let them. If you pass your journeyman's test I would ask for a little bit more on the hour maybe a dollar. I do not know how busy you are or how much work is in your area. Any experience is good experience. If you're in an area where work is ample sometimes you will benefit by making a move to another contractor. I was 31 before I got my Master's license but you did not really have to have one at that time. Now you're supposed to have a master electrician on each job here in my state.
@Havamal you know you have to turn the breaker to the complete off position first and then back to on. If the element shorted out it could have taken out the breaker with it. You need to pull the panel cover off disconnect the two wires from the breaker and try to turn the breaker back on if the breaker holds then the wires compromise somewhere between the panel and the heating element
@Havamal okay yes if you take the wires off and reset the breaker and it won't hold then the breaker is bad but the heating element may be bad as well. If you have a continuity meter you can test the heating element. Put the meter on continuity and put one lead on each of the two screws where the heating element was fed. If it does not ring continuous then it is open. You can also test from each screw to the metal shell of the water heater to see if it's shorted to ground. Basically if it does not ring continuous the element is bad
@Deleted User In Florida, you only need one Journeyman per 4 workers, but that's not enforced. You don't need a Master on the job.
The only reason to get the license is for the Contractor license.
I'm probably going to go with option 2. Just wanted to see if you had any relevant advice one way or the other.
I don't think they're blowing smoke up my ass. Construction is booming here, and they need guys who can show up sober to be management.
Yes it is similar here once you have over certain amount of men on a job you need to have any Master on the job.
I'm not sure if this is electrical but...we moved into a new house and the plug for the dryer is one of the older, 3-pronged ones. I switched out the cable on our dryer to fit. Now the dryer isn't drying like it used to, as in we have to run it on multiple cycles. Could this be due to the new, ungrounded cable or is it just a coincidence?
When you switched the four-wire cord and put the 3-wire cord you may have miss landed one of the wires. The three prong cord will attach to the ground screw which is green and the other two terminals will go on the black and red respective terminals in the dryer you were possibly running your dryer off 110 volt instead of 220. I don't know if I making any sense it's been a long day
Also when you go from a 4-wire to a 3-wire cord like that you will have to put a small wire jumper between the white terminal and the green screw inside the dryer the ground and the neutral go to the same place in the panel so you have to fake the dryer out into thinking it has both. So just make sure the new cord is landed on the red and black Terminals and the ground wire goes to the green screw but you put a small jumper between the Green screw and the terminal where the white wire landed in the dryer originally
Thanks so much. I'll have to pull it out and look at it as I read this.
Make sure you unplug that that 220-volt hurts
You either put one of the hot legs on the wrong terminal or by not putting the jumper in between the ground and the neutral the controls are not getting the neutral they need to operate as a 110-volt entity
I'm headed home if you have any trouble just post something and one of us will get back to you here in a few good luck
Thanks. What's a jumper, just a regular old wire or something specific?
No it's just a small piece of insulated wire you don't want it to be too small a piece of number 12 gauge wire or a piece of number 10 would be great you want to make sure it's insulated and it simply goes between those two points you jump one terminal to the other you want to make sure that the wires tightened Down Under the screw sufficiently if you have more than one wire under the screw
Here's what it looks like now, before doing anything.
I also just noticed what looks like a burned area on the black.
Okay I'm sorry I was thinking you were going from a 3 wire to a 4-wire cord or 4-wire to 3-wire cord. You were switching one 3-wire cord to a different 3-wire cord is that correct?
No, I had a 4 on there, and changed to a 3.
Okay the cord you have on is connected properly I did see a burn matk on one of the terminals. It's possible that you shorted out one half of your two pole breaker when you did that go to the dryer breaker in the panel turn it off and turn it back on one half of that breaker may have tripped internally when you turn it off and turn it back on it resets it do that and then run the dryer see if it gets hot if it doesn't you may have to test voltage. You can test for the 220v at the dryer receptacle and if you don't have it through the problem could lie in the breaker try resetting it first
What's happening is the dryer is trying to dry on half of the voltage which tells me that one half of the breaker is not operating
Yes that is called a 2 pole breaker it has two Hots. One half of that breaker could have went out if you touched any of the terminals together turn it off and then turn it right back on. If you have a way to test the voltage at the outlet try to test the two like slots and see if you have 220 Volt across them
I saw a burn mark on one of the wire terminals so I'm thinking maybe you might have bumped the wires together
Ok, so now it's just a matter of running it and seeing if it works better? Did I mess up the cable by bumping them?
I have no equipment to test it.
I understand okay when you accidentally touch them together you may have damaged one half of that breaker so it's only getting 110 volts instead of 220 volts. When you turned it off and turned it back on you may have reset it internally. Turn the dryer on and run it and see if it gets hot like it normally should if it does not then you were going to have to find a voltage tester and test the breaker and see if it needs to be replaced
To test the breaker you would take the panel off turn the breaker on and put the two test leads where the two wires on the breaker are located and see if it gives you 210 or 220 volts approximately. If not the breaker would have to be replaced. Is there anything else in your house that is not working properly is there any areas in your house that do not have power other than the dryer acting up? It's possible that you could have damaged more than one breaker. If you're not having trouble with anything else than just concentrate on the dryer
No problems elsewhere. For what it's worth, the prior owner was an old electrician and I think he did some work on the place, running g electric out to the barn and workshop.
I'll run a load and report back.
Okay great if it's still acting up you're going to have to find a voltage tester a Tester Lite rated at 240-volt woodwork you can probably get one for about 10 bucks. If you have to replace that breaker it is either a GE or an ite style plug-in breaker you can get it for about $9 at Home Depot and I can talk u through changing it if you need to
Somewhere on the panel or the panel cover it will tell you if it's a GE or an ite or Westinghouse Etc
Great, thanks again.
One last thing if you do have to have a tester if you get one from Lowe's or Home Depot their policy is to take back anything in the original package by it bring it home use it put it back in the package and return it
Cool. And I just remembered something that happened when I installed the cable. I, stupidly, plugged it in before connecting it just to make sure it would go in. The other, now live, end touched the metallic exhaust hose and there was a spark. I'm guessing that may have tripped the breaker. Hopefully I didn't do any further damage.
Hope not. 220volt is baad news. Be careful
No problem man anytime that's what we're here for. And for the record I do work on some appliances so if you have trouble with other things just give me a holler maybe I can help
Hey guys, just got my membership approved yesterday. I work as a specialist for my local dept of water and sewer. Mostly pumps and motors, but I also do some controls work and occasionally work on generators. I deal with anything from 12v up to 480v. I'll be glad to help or contribute any way I can, just give me a shout.
I use glow rods, magnets and fishing drill bits
If I'm in an attic trying to fish down a wall I will measure out and find my location up top. I will drill two or three 1in sized holes with a paddle bit. I'll stick my flashlight over one of the holes that way I can use the other two to look down and fish wires. If you're in an attic you can you can just stick the wire down the wall it's easiest. You don't have to get the fish tape reel or glow rods out of the truck to do the job. A fish tape can be used in walls or in conduit to pull wire through metal tubing. I was trained commercial so I have used a fish tape to fish just about everything. You have to be careful with them around live Parts as they can short things out and kill you or cause an explosion
Thats why you always need a non conductive fish tape also
Yes sir I have a nylon fish tape that I use but it is very short so I use it when I'm around the panels
It,s kind of crazy because in a residential setting the ground wires are bare. I always thought it was crazy that you had all these live parts and then your ground conductors were always bare
Right on, I have both a fish tape and glowrods. I always preferred the glow rod. Coaxial cable is so easy to fish though.
@Deleted User that is crazy. Any reason it's bare?
I would say probably cost. They used to pull bare neutrals in conduit years ago but they discovered if someone broke a wire between a load and the panel the conduit would become energized as the neutral path to ground. That's why bare wire is not used in conduit anymore. Romex and certain grounding situations where you are burying a wire for grounding purposes for let's say service there are exceptions that allow you to use the bare copper
In regards to fishing wires in conduit. They make a vacuum system called a vacuum fish tape that uses little sponges with a wire connected to them that you hook a nylon string to and vacuum that device called a mouse through the conduit. It is used for long runs. It works good in PVC pipe because it is glued but if the pipe has been in the ground and has condensation water built up in it sometimes it will slow it down. You can use it in long runs of EMT which is the metal tubing but you have to have what they call compression fittings coupling the pipe together
I've never had a problem sucking rats in screw type connected EMT
@Deleted User wow, that's cool. I learned something today. I didn't know about that vacuum thing. Thanks bro
You can also just use a plastic bag, a shop vac, and jet line if you're doing it on the cheap
Yeah once have the gist you can use just about anything. I was on a job once and was searching for some plastic and ended up using part of a Fritos bag. I've used them with screw conduits before but it just depends on how big the conduit is and how long the run is.
I was about to ask how long of a run can you do that ghetto way?
I was just curious, because everyone has a different way to fish wire
Not yet, going to take my Journeyman's in a few months. I had a convo with you about it a week ago.
Lol that's right I'm sorry. It has been a rough couple of weeks. What part of the country are you in
It's cool, Florida
That's right. I'm just getting senile in my old age. Are you going to hit him up for a raise once you get your journeyman's
I'm probably going to quit. I'm thinking about moving to Seattle, where I can get $35/hr so that I can save up for when the housing market drops.
Maybe California. Idk yet.
The company I work for is huge, and since the pay isn't great, a lot of my coworkers are Haitians or Hispanics. I get a bit tired of it, and I'm not sure I want to be in charge of a bunch of guys who resent me for being white boy in charge
I understand that! What kind of a foothold do the unions have in those areas?
If that's your picture for your avatar you look to be about 24
I was just asking I was trying to figure out how long you been in the trade total
Got my job 2 weeks out of highschool
Yes it seems like two unions have a stronger hold the further north you go up to Northeastern Corridor. Up around New York and New Jersey if you don't have a union card you don't get much work
Yes I graduated high school and two weeks later had a job as an electrician. I didn't know what I was getting into at the time. I really enjoy it though I don't think I would have gone another direction if I could do it over
I was college bound, pretty happy that I missed out on that
Yeah most of these colleges are freaking cancer. Feeding these kids heads full of b*******
My family has been oven middle class for 3 generations. My mom still flips out at me, despite my p nice net worth.
My dad and I are the first out of three generations, cousins included, on both sides, not to get a 4 year diploma.
I need to get my Master's, but I want to see the country a little while I'm still young.
It's definitely a top priority.
And those "hidden" plugs are sweet
Yes sir! What kind of cabinet is that with the strips mounted in it?
I think they were mounted after. I don't know anything about those cabinets, they were in a house in the triangle.
Koba bought some weird ass Chinese electronic lightbulb.
an electrician isnt going to be able to help me out with it but thanks
My bad breh
Are they wi-fi controlled?
Just wanted to add my endorsement for the LED tube lights to replace fluorescent fixtures as mentioned in the tutorial. I installed one in my kitchen a couple of years ago and it's been top-notch.
Fucking Haitians. What the fuck is faciling lights?
So I woke up today with power to only half of my house, I switched the breakers and still no power, anyone have any ideas? @everyone
Wait for the electrical fire and collect insurance?
Lmao, is that the best option?
@Whitelash it could be a couple of things. If you have a main breaker in your panel it will control both phases. A phase and B phase. If the breaker has malfunctioned and one side of it has gone bad only half of the house will work. Turn the breaker off wait a second and then turn it back on it may bring everything up it may reset itself. If you have an electrical tester you could take the cover off and test from the metal frame of the panel to each of the two main wires coming in. If you have power to both halves of your main breaker it could be coming in from outside the utility companies end of it
If you do take the cover off to test it make sure that you're very careful when removing the cover. If there is any damage to the wires going to the main breaker or the main breaker itself you should probably stop and call someone with some experience. If the breaker is burnt up in the wires just sitting there hot it could arc an blow up in your face
If the main breaker is bad the meter Globe will have to be pulled out of the meter base so that those wires are de- energized and then whatever repairs are needed can then be performed
I just got in the car to head home so if you have any more input shoot it my way and I will be able to check back with you in about 15 or 20 minutes
@John O - maybe they are trying to say fan and ceiling lights LOL
Booga booga booga
@Deleted User Good luck, sometimes you have to deal with shitheads.
Oh yeah this guy is into me for almost 3 Grand. He and I have been going back and forth I have got some of it from him so far but he's waiting on checks on projects that have been completed and I'm not racking up any more hours till I get my money. So I haven't really been around any work to be taking pictures and making post LOL I hope to have it straightened out this coming week though
That sucks, hopefully he'll come through but good luck with that bro. We haven't been doing anything fun. We finished our last box gutter and the other carpenter quit. So all we're really doing is windows. We just picked up a black Masonic lodge. I didn't know there were black freemasons.
Free?🤔masons huh.. lol yea i think it'll sort itself out but it suks
It's not nearly as exclusive as it used to be
@Deleted User Without doxxing yourself, are you an owner, or just a foreman/superintendant?
I work for myself. I have my Master's license so I primarily do electrical work but also dabble in some of the other trades. I do residential maintenance as well. General stuff appliances ceramic tile trim work etc
Jack of all trades
I knew you were a Master. You ever think about renting it out and taking it easy for a little while?
Sooo...we have a field fridge for our produce, which is basically an insulated tool shed with an air conditioner rigged to cool down into the 30s. It's on a 20 amp breaker, which trips intermittently. I'm thinking its moisture building up in the AC (which is obviously not designed to be acting like a refrigerator). What do you guys think?
This is the device we have to trick the AC. https://www.storeitcold.com/
Will send tomorrow, thanks brother.
I'll keep my eye out
A breaker Works off of heat. Heat and amperage are synonymous. If the breaker is just tripping intermittently it could be that the breaker is getting weak from a constant load being on it. Depending on how frequently the air conditioner Cycles it may just be wearing the breaker down. I would suggest replacing the 20 amp breaker
Yeah I was thinking that too. We’re really running the bejesus out of that circuit
@Deleted User That's what I was thinking. He could have one of those GFI breakers.
Yeah it’s GFI
In that case it probably is the moisture. Just elevate the unit so that it doesn't collect water.
How is the unit connected to your panel? Is it plug and cord, or hard wired?
Cord. We have it elevated quite a bit, with about a 3% slope and drain holes drilled out
@Deleted User Do they make water proof covers that are water tight when a cord is plugged in?
Ah you think it might be moisture at the plug?
@Deleted User If it's tripping the GFI, it's probably where the cord hits the outlet.
Nice. Will have a look
Post that pic
Yes because I don’t have to go back to the panel to reset it
I just trip the gfi
Ok, yeah, it's definitely moisture. When Greg gets back and you post your pic we can think about hardwiring it inside a weather proof box.
Rgr thanks lads
Oh so it is the GFCI that is tripping and not the breaker? I got you. A GFI plug is sensitive to condensation and humidity. If there is considerable moisture building up in the area where the outlet is located you're going to have to try to isolate it in some Manner. Pictures would help definitely. It's possible you may be able to move the outlet or relocate the cord through the wall and plug it up exterior
Well the wife just told me she’s had to run to the panel several times so it might be both lol!
I can take care of the moisture problem easily enough
Yes I would go ahead and replace the breaker and the GFI outlet itself. You can get a 15 amp GFI outlet for about $13 and depending on the style of breaker it may be as the little as 5 or $8 to replace
@Deleted User make sure you go outside to where your meter is and disconnect the entire house before you open your panel.
@Deleted User So I tried to replace an outlet due to the plastic breaking on one of the receptacles. The new one is GFCI. The old one is decades old (possibly from the 50s) and the wires are from 1939 so I can barely see the white/black on the insulation. The outlet screws into a metal box, but it's loose in the wall (not totally detached, but loose) and I can't see if it's grounded to any pipes or what have you. There are no ground wires in the box. I wired the new outlet the same as the old: no power, LED unlit. I figured maybe the line/load was reversed so I switched them, now the LED lights up green but there's no power to the receptacles and it won't Reset. Is this thing just not grounded? Do I need to run a copper wire from the box to a pipe in the wall?
It's mid-series if that makes a difference
@John Mackenzie if you have a means of testing the circuit you can test from each conductor to the metal box and see if one of them has voltage. If it is an old metal clad cable called BX the shielding may be grounded. They do not intend for the shield to provide a ground for the receptacle though. On a GFCI receptacle polarity does matter. The energized conductor needs to go to the hot side which will have a gold screw. The GFI also has terminals marked line and load. To feed receptacle you use the ones marked line. The outlet will work properly with just a hot and a neutral attached. It does not have to have a ground. There is a code ruling which says you can replace an old two prong outlet with a GFI outlet without having to provide a ground to it because the GFI is a safety feature
Hm.. I thought it had to be grounded or it would trip
Ok then I'm at a loss for what's wrong, I put the old one back in and it works fine
I put the power to the gold screws and neutral to silver screws
And I swapped them when I thought I mixed up line and load, but it didn't work either way
The hot wire goes on the gold screw the white wire goes on the silver screw. The silver screw is for the neutral. Both of these two wires will go on the upper portion of the outlet marked line. How many wires total are you working with two or four
One pair of wires meaning a black and white are the feed circuit coming in. These will have to go to the terminals marked line. The other two wires can go in the load terminals. If you had the hot wire landed properly but had the wrong neutral paired with it the light may work but the outlet will not function properly. You will have to get the hot and neutral paired correctly
Hopefully you can just look at the box ifthe cables come in in separate connectors it's easy to see which two are a pair
They don't, they all come in separately lol, I tried to look back behind the box but I can't see
Can you take a picture of the box and send it to me
It's at my mom's house, I'll stop by after work tomorrow and take a pic
And if you can try to take some type of a tester with you even if it is just a small hand-held light. test light. What it is is you had a hot and neutral come into the Box and feed the outlet and then a pair of wires going out to another load Downstream. You have to identify that pair that it's coming in live. With a test light you should be able to test cross the wires until you find the two that read hot. That should be your hot and your neutral that you would put on the line side.
But if you have some small tester like that I could talk you through it easy enough
Isn't that weird though that it works fine with the old outlet, and after installing the new one in one configuration I swapped the positions of the black wires w/each other and the positions of the white wires w/each other, and it didn't work in either configuration? Then I reinstalled the old outlet and it works fine? Even if I mixed up line and load, I swapped it and still got nothing.
Eh I'll grab a test light and report back tomorrow
Yes I can get confusing when they're not marked properly. You just have to get the hot black wire with the correct white wire. On A regular outlet it does not have the line and load options that the GFI does. In that scenario you just have to get the blacks on one side and the whites on the other
Huh huh huh
Good one Greg
Watching other guys work all day sure is exhausting
Grab a shovel bro, plenty of work to do! 😆 😆
It's cold today, I didn't dress properly.
Fam, I'm a big bad heavy machinery operator. I'm too good to associate with those dirty plebians.
I need it, man, I'm skinny as hell
You're right though, every professional operator I've seen was 300+lbs
😂 I need it too, I've worked my ass off, literally. I was so stoked on Sunday, I just broke 150lbs😆
You work outside? I thought you did custom stairwells and shit
I do historic preservation in general, I work inside and out. Even doing windows I'm in and out, painters caulk and paint windows shut, almost like they don't know windows are suppose to open.
Usually with windows I spend the first 4 hours of the day outside.
Hey if I have a question ... who do I @?
@John O -#7072
Greg's a master electrician, I'm just a late stages apprentice @Deleted User
Yeah a laid-off electrician LOL
Ooh, that sucks dude
You ever get paid by that guy?
Hell. No! Pissed off bad too
There are a bunch of pieces of shit out there, man. Even amongst whites.
Applying for an apprenticeship next Wednesday, wish me luck
Good luck 🍀
It's an IBEW sponsored program/apprenticeship
900 in-class hours and 8000 on-the-job hours over the course of 5 years (or less). Something like that.
I didn't realize the Union was so strong in Texas
I was just asking because a lot of guys go to technical schools and lose out on thousands of dollars
I actually got advice from a few guys on here in terms of searching for unions/apprenticeships
Yeah, I think it was me
I hadn't seen your avatar in a while, thought you were new
Destroying technical schools is my personal life goal
Well I talked to a few guys via pm, just found this server today
Lots of tradesmen in IE
I have a cousin and uncle in the ibew, they like it
I've talked to a fella at the local branch about this apprenticeship, had a great conversation. They seem like standup guys.
I'm applying next Wednesday but I don't think I'll be taking the aptitude test/interview till December, from what I was told.
My mother in law called me yesterday, she’s selling her house and moving (farther away thank god) but she had a ceiling fan in one of the bedrooms that worked intermittently and wobbled pretty bad, stopped by after work to take a look....
Apparently the previous owner just stuffed the housing full of socks trying to keep it from wobbling
It wobbled because it was half ass attached to a light box, not one for a fan. I would have had to crawl about a mile through her attic to change the box, so I just put a light in its place. I thought the fan motor might have had a short anyway, but it had no continuity to ground, checked the incoming voltage, it was fluctuating between 110 and 40v. Pulled the light switch, whoever put it in had used the stab connectors instead of the screws and had cracked it.
Submitted all my paperwork today
test and interview somewhere in December
My family knows another young man currently ~2 years into the same program/apprenticeship that I'm applying for. He dropped out of college/nursing school with no prior trade experience and was accepted into the program. He says they are DESPERATE for motivated young men ready to work
(pretty much what ya'll that I've spoken to have told me)
Pretty positive that I'll be an employed apprentice electrician by the end of December
will keep ya'll updated
@Px4 you should see some of the crap I've pulled off of walls and ceilings.
Most memorable was a large outdoor led that filled up with water because a seal broke. Line was still hot, just heated all the water for who knows how long and burned the crap out of us when we took it down.
@Deleted User congrats on becoming a man.😂
And yeah man it's really hard to get the young guys to work. The ones I see are lazy, no work ethic, can't show up on time, dick around when they are at work, and complain every minute. Oh and they can't stay off their phones, they take no intuitive.
And God forbid you give them a hard time. We work labor intensive jobs that sucks, we talk shit all day because it's funny.
I'll see a young guy fighting with removing a nail, so I'll say something like, you going to let that little thing whoop your ass. Instead of saying something clever back, they pout about about me being a dick. Ha
Bro, this big black guy started a couple weeks ago, and he can't fucking do his job. He can't pull wire because he's too much of a bitch, even though he's 6'5" 230 lbs, he can't follow directions even though he asks questions all day, and he talks shit even though he's the most useless guy on the crew
I'm going to make him quit
Haha that sucks, I run guys like him off too. Haha
I banter well, follow directions and don't complain.
ready to learn that big brain trade shit
Good luck man, it's treated me well. I have good savings from it, even though I'm underpaid. Even a bad company pays you pretty well.
Working on banner lol
Just getting started trying to do the computer work in the layout now I had to have somebody help me
Did you do the one with Erika?
@Deleted User oh shit, you should have said something, I can help a little. Work is kicking my ass, people want windows before Christmas and not plywood. Haha
Just secured an electrician apprenticeship for this winter with my local IBEW
Bad ass man!
@Nick-NJ If any given circuit gives you too much trouble, you can always just tear it out of the wall.
Haha I'll have to see if there is any correlation to shocking myself and my strength increasing
I'm super excited though since I've been shitting the last 3.5 years finishing up my management degree
Happy for you brother.