#electrician (Discord ID: 322712495108128779) in MacGuyver - Skills & Academics, page 1
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Welcome to the electrical channel. To start this off i did a service change yesterday for a semi flush 100A panel. The panel was a zynsco (notorious fire hazards) for an eaton. The exterior was stucco and the interior is wood studs.
The autists will notice labels. Those are to signify opposite phasing
As someone whose limits are installing ceiling fans this is terrifying
this is my newest apprentice
@Deleted User you get used to it. I did this live. The transmission lines were not turned off.
Come Monday i will be changing the condenser (outdoor) and the evaporate coil (inside attic). I guess ill be sharing that in here or another channel
If anyone has any questions about electrical or HVAC im here to help.
Hello i'm a 30+ yr master electrician and general do it yourselfer. Happy to help you guys out anytime
thanks man, this'll make it 10 times easier to see the good info
In a few hours ill have new content
I came home from work day before yesterday and found a house very hot even though the air conditioner was set to be running. Upon looking at the outside unit I found it humming but neither the compressor nor the circulating fan running. The humming of the motor indicated to me that it was trying to run but was having difficulty doing so. I killed the power and opened up the control side and checked the capacitor. I found it it was swollen and out of shape which is an indicator that it is bad. Sometimes they were rupture other times they will look fine although they are bad. If it is not physically altered you may have to take it to a air conditioning supply house to have it checked for you. The capacitor cost me approximately $18 and is quite simple to change out. And could save you quite a bit of money on a service call and mark up from an HVAC contractor
This is a picture of the new capacitor installed if you will notice it isn't swollen
The capacitor is a component that helps the motors to start and run efficiently
I carry turbo capacitors. You may find the versatility helpful in the field @Deleted User
Gregs right an $18-$60 part installed averages $400-$450 installed out here
Well heres half the install of today. The customer asked if we could come back tomorrow so they could have family time
What causes the capacitor to swell?
Age and demand. When a compressor sits for 9 months without use the oil in the refrigerant sludges to the bottom. Then you hope to turn the system on. The mechanical side tries to move, but the electrical side doesnt know that the mechanical side is struggling so it tries hard and dies
Exactly. One thing you have to remember is electricity is a very powerful thing. Many times when a component fails there will be physical damage that you will be able to see on many of the components. Burns, discoloration, melting, etc.
But the actual swelling. Pressure? Temp change?
@William Kenney – MD a capacitor stores static electric energy in a dialectric space... literally lighting in a bottle. When and electric motor is mechanically locked the electrical system will generate more, without ampacity monitors devices will literally overheat. See the by prodruct of electricity is heat. Our NEC is technically NFPA volume 70. The national electric code is written by the national fire protection agency
this is arc damage on a 100A main breaker.
Any low voltage questions, I know a bit. I started out as a low voltage tech in my current company.
Always. Plus crimpers and a toner.
Always a fun time.
@Infineon dressing racks is so tedious. BTW have they made a toner that reads thru mag shields yet? I had a hospital contract years ago where a guy cut the labels off in the server room on cat6a with mag shields.... fml that was ridiculous to ID
Digital toners will. I use a pretty cheap toner from Fluke that will tone through anything. (Cheap by Fluke standards, at least)
That will read thru mag shields?
Yeah, I've even had it pick up through metal conduit and from behind 4 inches of concrete.
I've yet to find a place that won't pick up a wire.
Please shoot me the model info
I have the older model of this one.
Has RJ45 and RG6 barrel connectors
Well i know the toner im buying next time someone wants a needle in a server room haystack found
Will even test the line too.
My toner is for mostly tracing underground 120v-480v
I'm not sure if it's on this model, but mine also has plugins for banana clips
Yeah, the highest I'll touch is 220
And even then, I'm not supposed to
But even then it can be difficult to trace underground work
Its funny that people freak about higher V
Voltage and current are inversely related
Meh. It all shocks the same. It's just not under our contractor's license.
I hear that
Do you fusion splice also?
Not personally, no.
I can terminate fiber though.
I feel like i wasted my time with fiber, certs but rarely get the work for it
Sc and st?
Yeah, fiber's exploding around here so it's actually pretty easy to find work as AT&T is pulling it to all the current businesses and ressies
And usually just SC
But I've done fiber patch panels that are in ST
When i was in the military i worked with a system that was fiber for engineering spaces on an aircraft carrier. Got out and barely touched glass
Ha. I didn't do any of this tech stuff in the service. I was combat arms
Got out and needed a job. Got picked up for an IT help desk and worked my way up from there. Eventually outsourced and got into low voltage from there.
Well anything you can learn that will let you eventually contract is good imho
Beginner question here: I'm currently working on rewiring the lighting in my basement; at present it's a mess of different fixtures, wiring, and breakers. My question is how many 100watt bulbs can I run off a 10amp breaker. Ideally I'd like 9 or 10 lights; should I upgrade to a 15amp, or will the 10amp handle that load?
@Izat - VA#3390 take the total wattage of the bulbs and / 120 volt that will give you the amperage of that circuit. you really want to keep the load on the breaker at 80% so with a 100 watt light bulb you're looking at 8 bulbs. It goes the same with CFL bulbs or LED bulbs. You take the total wattage and / your voltage to get your amperage
Your voltage in your residence should be 110 volt but for little pad you can use 120.
To go a little deeper if the wire is 14 gauge wire you can change that 10 amp breaker to a 15 amp breaker. If it is 12 gauge wire you can bump your breaker size to a 20 amp. A 10 amp breaker is not used these days. 15 20 30 at cetera are the applicable sizes according to code
I know the math does not work out exactly on that but that'll get you right in the ballpark
Awesome, so upgrading to a 15 amp breaker would be sufficient for 10 lights
Yes the wire needs to be at least 14 gauge before you can change the breaker safely. Once you have the 15 amp breaker in place as I said before simply count up the total wattage on your bulbs and / 120 and that will give you the amperage. on a 15 amp breaker you want to keep the amperage at 12 amps for your 80% rule
And 10 bulbs would give you about eight and a half amps so yes you would be fine on that
I'm pretty sure the wire is 12 gauge (not at the house rn), so I should be good
One more question - the basement's unfinished, so the joists are bare; is it code to drill holes thru each joist to run the line thru? I see a mix of that and stapling the wire to the underside of the joists. It would mean me drilling more holes, not enough space in the existing holes
If wire is number 12 you can put a 20 amp breaker in safely again keep it at the 80% rule which is 16 amps maximum load
(If you haven't picked up on it, I'm a complete novice; just bought my first house in April)
I'll go with 20 amps then
Code now tells us not to strap to the bottom of the floor joist. I guess that's in anticipation of finishing out an area further down the road. So if it were being inspected yes you would need to drill through the joist. The way you decide to do it is up to you it is an existing home with a mixture of both styles of wiring so it's kind of at a decision call on your part
Not sure that I'll end up finishing, but if its code it's worth the extra time to go ahead and do it
No problem that's what we're here for. You'll find a lot of this stuff is just common sense. You just need to exercise safety anytime you get into a live panel. If you're unsure of what you're doing you can always shut the main breaker off and use a flashlight or a headlight of some type to perform the work
^i did that twice already replacing all the outlets; I have a pretty healthy fear of getting zapped
Thanks again for your input, it's much appreciated 👌🏻
Yes I can be difficult because you have to kind of visualize how the circuit works a lot of times in order to work and safely. Anytime someone with limited experiences working on something they should be energized the circuit
I concur with greg 100%
@Izat - VA keep an eye out for broken tabs on outlets. They may be switched
As a rule of thumb on a 120v circuit a 100w is around 1a
And dimmer switches can only handle usually around 600w. So if you plan on dimming that area you may need to divide the load across two dimming switches
Good to know, luckily no dimmers here but I may do some on the main level eventually
Anyone ever make an alternator?
That is, convert physical energy into electrical?
It is not the easiest thing to do. You basically have a motor that is working backwards. You have to have quite a bit of copper windings inside the frame and you would have to spein it very quickly. If you had it attached to a bicycle or other of means it would not be so bad
Electric lady would not be that difficult to build the difficult part is when you have to do the spinning!
Seen them on sail boats. Was also thinking sewing table pedal.
Yes you have to get the ratios in the windings right and then have a set RPM to keep the voltage at a set level. I'm sure there are simple units I'm talking more along the lines of a consistent voltage output of 110v or higher
Any way to do it without copper? Practically I mean.
The two components of a motor or generator do not actually touch. It works off what is called induction. Copper or gold would give the best results. Some type of metal has to be used other metals do not work as well
Yeah is it basically a spinning core inside of coils?
Rotor and stator
Yes sir and giving what you're trying to do using steel or something of that nature just wouldn't work for the induction
Keep in mind when building this that it will always take more energy to make energy than the energy produced. Heat and friction are energy losses
This is the equation that prevents perpetual motion
Ugh im at a negro house giving an estimate
Literally a chimp out on tv..... and the smell....
Remove and replace a 225A single phase panel
@Lebens so you basically disconnected all the wires from the old panel, tracked them, and required them to the new panel?
How long does that take?
Im on my 10th hour
Still not done
Tomorrow i have another one to do
Wednesday im installing a lighting control system
2.5 days work and ill clear $6k
@Lebens that panel/meter combo in that last picture is the second one of those I've seen you post. It's similar to what I would call a meter bank for a multi dwelling bldg. Is that something that is common for your area. Is that what the utility requires? I'm in Louisville and all of the services that we install have a meter Base outside and then a panel beneath it or just inside the wall from it. I was just wondering if that is something that you personally prefer or is that something that is common to your neck of the woods
@Deleted User east coast vs west coast. Out here we use all in one enclosures, i hate it. You guys have the better version
@Deleted User this building wanted a way to work on the panel without shutting down the substation also. With the meter socket they can monitor usage and have a means of disconnect for swapping main breaker
I was getting ready to run an outlet off this existing outlet. First tree ground wasn't connected and three was a jumper you can see in the pic. It's this normal practice. I've never seen it before.
It looks like the wiring was a two wire system. For a while they decided that grounds were necessary and did not pull a ground conductor. The neutral wire which is the white wire is at Ground potential in the panel so basically it is grounded just like a ground wire would be so they are putting a jumper between the neutral screw and the ground screw so as to ground the outlet. This is not cold legal. The proper fix would be to go buy a two wire Outlet which is an outlet that has the two vertical slots but no round ground hole and put that back in. People change and put 3 wire outlets on so they can plug things like plug strips and other devices with ground prongs but it is neither safe nor legal. If there is a green or bare ground conductor in the box then you can use that to bond to the green screw and use a 3 prong outlet otherwise it should go back to the old to wire original scenario
I see this all the time and it is a scenario that will work and provide both a neutral and a ground but like I said as per your electrical code there should be a wire for the hot a wire for the neutral and a wire for the ground.
The jumping of neutral to ground is to trick an inspectors plug tester. This is a hack job "electricians" work
The ground isnt even wrapped the right direction
It's weird because there were 2 ground wires in the box they just weren't connected. Which makes me worry there is a bad ground.
I'm going to buy a cheap circuit tester and do some investigating.
Well all the grounds are good on that circuit. Unless anyone can think of something I should check, I guess I'm going to hook it back up.
Do a resistance check from neutral to ground. The grounds and neutrals typically are bonded at the panel. Sometimes you will find floating neutrals which means its isolated. However the xo bond coming from the secondary side of transformers creates ground aka your zero reference point
Yes go ahead and make it all up include your new wire that you were going to run twist all your light colors clockwise under a wired nut with the short jumper wire to your individual device and It will give you best results
Here is a splice with 3 nm cables and the jumper wires to the outlet. Twist wires clockwise as this is how the wirenuts tighten
So after testing all the outlets on that circuit ( and the rest of the house which is ok), the receptacles on that breaker all have an open ground. Looks like I get to spend some quality time in my attic tomorrow.
@Lebens i most likely will. I already have the dry wall cut away from running stereo wire and cat5.
Yeah I'm using that on all my receptacles for now on. Very clean.
This method also changes the ckt to parallel. In parallel ckts the device can fail and usually will not disable the whole ckt as it will in series
Crazy stuff. Glad to help. Hope to see u in cville!
No sir. During the summer i work non stop. Feast or famon and ive got plenty of mouths to feed brother
Installing a furnace today
out with the old
in with the new
I know its not electrical but my skills are diverse..... and diversity is our strength goys
Any of you guys know what this is. It was wired up to a light receptacle in my basement.
Low voltage step down transformer
Oh haha Well I guess you know some things are done right now.
@Lebens finishing up HVAC school in Feb (18 months). U have any general advice for me? Any areas of the trade i should stay away from, go toward? Im getting straight As but there is just so much to know, areas to go, I feel disoriented. Any advice id greatly appreciate it
@REVNAT/PA bro general advice from another tradesman, I went to trade school for machine tool and now I'm a carpenter, and I specialize in historic preservation. Try everything in your field, and find what you enjoy then find the guys who will pay you the most haha
I recommend targeting residential service companies
Start as an installer. Move up to tech.
Move up to sales tech
Spend some time learning the business and start contracting
^^^ becoming the contractor is the endgame!
It varies from state-to-state. you have X amount of hours in the field and some State accredited school. An engineering degree will provide the requirement for time in the field. At that point you're eligible to test for your Master's license
Your time in the field roughly works out to 4 years
In cali they verify your ss records for hours. Plus 4-5 years of school
An Apprentice thats brand new makes half of jm wages. So if jm make 50 you make 25 and it goes up every year.
I'm an electrical engineer
Can I skip the school?
Again I believe it varies upon state but yes your school degree he is applicable towards a certain portion of the requirements. It should go towards the schooling portion of it
I got 10k in savings and a college degree, should I get on someone else's crew or do my own gog
I would suggest working for someone else for a while before striking out on your own. There is a lot to be learned from guys that have been out there for a while. To start with one service truck, ladders and tools plus throw in start-up costs insurance licenses Etc you could put a dent it your money quick. You can go residential commercial or Industrial working for someone else would kind of give you an idea of what the different types of work you'll like
Tbh $10k won't be enough at all. And it wont help if you only have theory on paper, you have to know how to install to start a company.
Your best bet is to work for someone for a a few years. Learn residential, commercial and industrial. Once you learn the methods of each, you'll know how to manage a crew worth their salt
Also being good at sales is a bonus
More of an AV thing, but anyone here going to CEDIA?
Hey @Deleted User I have a question for you, in that picture of your tool layout, between your scissors and drywall saw, what is that thing with the gray wire nut on one end? I can't make it out in that picture.
is it a rat tail file?
It's a small triangular file that I used to dress screws and things that I have cut or deburr an edge
I used to carry a rat tail file to ream the inside of conduits when I cut it. I now use one end of my channel locks that's why they are skinned to go inside the end of a piece of conduit
oh ok. I couldn't make it out. I thought you had some new tool I hadn't seen yet ahah
No. Igave the customer the option for an additional $2k. He chose in his words to find some lesser mexicans to dig it. I spray painted the run last week. However my apprentice and i back filled it
Noob, here. My water heater stopped working. Saw that the circuit breaker was switched to the off position for the water heater at the breaker box. Should I replace the breaker or The element on the water heater?
The breaker is in the tripped position. Turn it to the off position and then try to turn it back on. If the breaker trips immediately then a heating element is shorted out and needs to be replaced. Depending on the age of the water heater you may want to consider replacing it. @Havamal
It does trip immediately when turned back on.
You have a short brother
Lol. For want of a comma.
You have a short, brother.
@Havamal Did you do any work recently at your house? Did you hang any pictures?
Everything else in the house seems to be working just fine. I put an inquiry in on the AO Smith website because the element is 208 volts and 3500 watts, which apparently is rare, even on their website, Lowe's, and Home Depot websites.
It probably wasn't that, it's just a personal paranoia.
If you have a multimeter, and you want to spend a little while in the init, you can always try to diagnose it yourself.
I might try that. I need to get a multimeter. I also have a discounted service plan with plumbers and electricians through a package when I bought my house.
My dad suggested the element going bad. He is prone to paranioa, but knows a lot more than me when it comes to this stuff. Thanks, guys.
@Deleted User I'm about to qualify to take my Journeyman's test. I have two options for the next few years:
1) Stay with the company that I started with, who have told me numerous times that I am foreman material, but are the lowest paying electrical contractor in the state
Or 2) Move to a rich, liberal city, save some money, find a state that I want to live in permanently, buy some property, and start working towards my Master's
Obviously, becoming Master is the next step, but would it be too bad to put it off until I'm 30?
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