#carpentry (Discord ID: 322712446747934721) in MacGuyver - Skills & Academics, page 1
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Welcome to the Carpentry channel.
I'm JHawk. I do wood working as a hobby. Some of the things I've made over the years have been anything from bread bowls and spoons to religious shrines. My dad and I used to make spendles and odds and ends doodads when I was little.
If you have any questions or insight feel free to share.
Here is how I imagined we would progress, initially:
Tools and tool maintenance.
1- Pocket knife
To start out with, you will need two items.
1- a blade
2- a sharpening stone
A dull blade does as much damage to the wood you're carving on, as Michael Obama's apendage did to Barry's bunghole.
Keep your knife sharp. Just get used to sharpening it before and after you carve.
Makes short work of your wooden muse.
You will notice a pattern of continued sharpening.
We all have been guilty of neglecting our tools, it happens. We should strive to not let it happen, but in case I does here is how to fix it.
Your general enemy will be rust, as we are dealing with mostly metal objects.
If you run into something like this, a little surface rust. The best way to attack it is:
a little penetrating oil,
and fine sand paper.
Spray the oil onto a rag, wipe down the blade. Let sit for a couple minutes then wipe off any loose deposits of rust.
Take fine sand paper and knock off any remaining rust.
Bro I love liquid wrench
>a little rust
I'm scared to know what a lot of rust is for you.
But yeah, the blade in question was one of my old blades that I don't really use. It was in a drawer in the barn. So, that one surely was neglected LOL. I figured others could learn from that mistake.
Hey everyone, nice to be here with you all. I've done some woodwork and have learned most of what I know from my dad. Here are some of the things I have made recently or am still working on. Once they are complete I will post a tutorial on the steps I took to make them.
The shelves were a project based around having a place to store my firearms. Once I'm finished with the small white shelf I will probably start with a step by step tutorial on that since it is an easier thing to make than the other pictures.
Let me know if anyone has any questions in the mean time, I'm always happy to help.
Very very nice
Nice hideaway for the rifle man!
I had no idea you did this. Looks great.
Thanks guys 😃 my dad has tried to teach me a lot over the years. Lucky for me he learned a lot from his dad growing up and passed some of his knowledge on to me.
@Jhawk nc Hey bros I'm a carpenter(finish and framing), I specialize in historic preservation/restoration. I'm a member of the Perservation Trades Network, keeping the old ways alive. I use chisels everyday, you should keep your chisels as sharp as your knives. Mora makes a sweet chisel ground knife, it's the best and it's only like 20 buck on amazon.
I have an great little trick, if you have a piece of wood that's busted off and you feel you might need to drill a pilot hole in it so it won't split in two while reattaching it but don't have a drill bit. Try this, this piece busted off an old window I "tuned up"
Take your nail and blunt the end
make it like an old cut nail so it actually cuts the fibers and not seperating them.
I set this tile a few days ago. I do a lot of construction as a side job.
@Preston - MO so pretty. When I buy a house, I'll hire you to tile it lol
There are many ways, and devices to sharpen your blade. I use stones. I found a few old ones at antique shops for cheap. They last for ever. I used to use a file to sharpen various blades. The issue with using a file is it dramatically removes material from your blade. Ive always heard that the edge doesn't hold as well with a file sharpened blade. Stones sharpen your blade, ever so slightly. It takes longer, especially if you neglect to sharpen your knife and allow it to get too dull.
Now on the stone, everyone has their own opinion as to how you should move the knife along the stone to sharpen it. For example, my father likes a circular motion on his stone. I will, for instance, use a circular motion on the point of my knife. Then I keep the blade pretty flat, angled slightly, as to keep the same edge as before.
Ultimately you want your knife to have a long happy life, aiding you in your adventures. A stone will extend it's life dramatically, comparatively.
@Erika thank you this is my sunroom. Going to do a kitchen backslash soon
Post pictures when you're done!
Very nice 👍🏻
I've done a similar tile in my bathroom.
So many houses here in Minnesota are like the picture on the left. Outdated and disgusting IMO
I wouldn't say its that oudated, early 2000's modeling. Bathrooms change styles so often. My parents did the bathroom last year and already are redoing it againt his year
Yeah, it's more the style of leaving the wood finish and not painting it that bothers me
why can't wood look like wood?
Personal preference really
i find it strange that in left pic the door moulding doesnt match the floor moulding
just looks wierd
Yeah I grew up in Northern California so maybe that influenced my taste a bit
Was working on this today and my dad accidentally hit it with his trailer 😦
@Envian my eyes suck. What damages were done? Those marks on the door?
If so since you painted it, that's an easy fix, and it'll still look nice.
Sand it out, then use some wood epox to fill, let dry for a day or so then sand out and paint.
Haha with a quick glance at the pic it looked like that tire was parked on top of it
Yeah the door will be easy to sand down. I'm debating making it a drawer instead of a door now. The only part that's really damaged is the top part that I stained
How bad is it? You could use a wood epox, the stuff I use takes stain, it won't show grain but if it's small scrapes you'll be good
I don't have a good angle of it, but it's all pushed in and uneven now. Might just replace the top piece and restain a new one
Yeah you can't really see it. It's fixable though
My rule on fixing rotted wood is if 40% is there, we're going to use the wood
If you want to stain, you can take wood glue and mix the sawdust in the glue, and use that as your putty
The damage to the door is because it got pushed in and doesn't have a handle on it and is a pretty tight fit. So I pried it open with a flat head screwdriver lol. I used an extra board we had lying around for the top of it, so I've got plenty more. I haven't tried that before with sawdust. That's interesting. I'm thinking I will just sand the door down so it fits better and it shouldn't be an issue once I paint it like you said. Not sure what I will do with the top piece yet. I might just cut another piece of that board to size 😂
I built some steps for my mom's house. We still have to paint them, but I thought I'd show off my handy work. Getting the supports for the stairs right was a pain, but in the end I think I got them level enough.
@Der Seeteufel - SD You're not done with the hand rails are you? No spindles, balusters, newel post?
Let me ask you a question, why did you reuse that old timber?
Sorry if I come off as a dick, but I take great pride in my work, and as a finish carpenter I follow behind skippy the butcher almost everyday.
@Der Seeteufel - SD I'm not calling you a hack haha. I would like to help you "church" that stair set up.
Yeah it's all old wood
or I guess not old but stuff that we had in a barn. It's probably stuff left over from a deck that was built 3 or 4 years ago
Oh ok. I thought you went and bought new wood and reused this couple pieces that are stained.
Lets talk about that handrail though. At least add a newel post on the end.
I could probably do that pretty easily. I don't have many tools though. The only powertools I had for this was a circular saw and a drill.
I would have to buy pre-made newel posts
It's worth it
I don't use a lot of power tools
That's my bread and butter
The guy I work for started doing carpentry before power tools were accessible to everyone. I do tons of work without power tools
That stuff and a chisel are all I use everyday
Would you guys say carpet or floor tile is better? I have dogs no kids
@whitelash1488#3099 Depends on where it's going in the house, and whatever look you're going for.
What room is it going in?
man how about laminate flooring?
you can achive a lot of different looks with laminate. It's durable and really easy to install.
I have no experience in carpentry and I just moved into my own house
laminate is going to be cheaper than tile, and you can probably get it the exact same look.
Ignore that cat, but this is a bamboo laminate.
You say ignore that cat as if it's not wearing a tie...
haha it was Sunday, he was getting ready for church.
@whitelash1488#3099 if you're looking to change the look of a room relatively inexpensively, you can add chair rails, picture rails, crown molding, or wainscoting to the walls. Adding 5 1/4in baseboard, if you don't already have it, can make a big difference to a room. And I can teach you scarf joints and mitered coping joints!
Here's a house I added crown, a chair rail and we added I think the baseboard was something like 8inches.
Oh this is vinyl, it looks great too. There are a ton of options for flooring.
You could literally have the hardwood floor look in every room, using laminate, vinyl and tile.
The only place I like carpet is in the bedrooms.
@RevStench#3208 Wow thanks! I'll have to save up and get ahold of you! I love IE everyone's so helpful and kind
I'm 23 and a newer home owner so I'm excited to make the place look nice
This is tile in a bathroom.
*Identity Evropa: You can do it. We can help.*
Finished this one, pretty basic but might be a good lesson to start with
Nice bro, looks good. Here's a great little chart to help with how high thing's should be.
That's pretty wild where did you get that chart at? Is that something that you got at work
@Deleted User I honestly can't remember. It was on my phone from Dec 2015. Not from work, but it's a good one.
Painting today. Anyone interested in learning how to paint like a boss? No tape cut in?
I'm actually talented at cutting for some strange reason
Yeah go for it, should be interesting to see
First thing, you pull paint no smear. It's like using a file, one direction.
You dip your paint brush in the paint. Wipe one side off using the lip of the can.
You paint with one side of the brush, pulling the paint.
To hold, grip the brush really low on the brush, using your fingers to make the bristles stiff.
Take your time and pull the paint. Steady hands
It all comes down to how you hold it. I use the 3 fingers on the bristles to stiffen them for better control.
Here's my shop
I love shop pics haha
Anyone good with plumbing
I do plumbing too
I live In upstate New York so my water pump outside is always frozen in the winter
I'm going to try and get my water pump inside and re fun all the pipeing
How hard should it be?
If you are talking about reconnecting the pump once it's inside the house it should not be too bad. They make a product called pecs which is a plastic water line with compression fittings. The requires a $100 tool to crimp them but when you're done you can take it back to Home Depot and return it for your money. If you're talking about rerunning pipe outside I would need a little more information. But anytime you can keep a water line deeper than 18 inches in the ground it won't freeze
I am reconnecting it inside, thanks I'll have to look into it!
The plastic pipe has changeovers where you can connect to the existing copper it's very easy to run then color coded blue and red
I have an issue with a the doorway into my basement. First problem is that the bottom of the doorway is a quarter of an inch offset from the top. The second is there is not enough room on one side for the trim and I don't want to trim it to make it fit. Soooo I'm ripping it all out and doing it right. My question is how do I rough out the doorway to the appropriate size and ensure I have room on both sides for the trim? The door I have is 31 5/8" and with sheet rock up I only have a 37 " span. Once the trim is around the frame it's 36 1/2" so my rough out has almost no margin for error.
When you're roughing in for a door the rough opening is always about an inchor so bigger than your prehung door. That way you could shim on either side to true it up. If your casing is 31 and 5/8 inches if you put your rough opening approximately an inch greater and Center it in the opening to the basement you should be able to se t the prehung door and shim it to get it centered and true
I guess I should just spend the money foe a prehung door instead of trying to use the salvaged one I have.
I did not catch that sorry. Yes trying to frame in and hang a door is rough to do. Plus you have to go back and trim it all out. If you get a Ford a prehung door it would go a lot quicker and easier on you. Just try to find one that matches the opening so you don't have a lot of drywall patching
@Placidseven - MO greg is totally right. I'll try to get to a door today if I can to show you how I do it.
Is your old door hollow? Or is it a slab or an old 5 panel?
So I broke my favorite chisel on Monday and only had a Lowe's close by to go to and I picked up this thing. It's my new favorite toy.
I know @Jhawk nc wanted to go over sharpening knives and chisels, well Friday I'm going to spend the first part of my day sharpening all my hand tools(knife, chisel, and crosscut saw). I'll put together a little tutorial for you fellas, common sense stuff.
@Placidseven - MO#5546 I've hung probably over 100 salvage doors making my own jambs and milling my own trim etc. just make sure you have plenty of shims on hand. The long cedar work the best. It can get complicated especially if you mortis your hinges. Need a good router or laminate trimmer.
With a pre-hung most of the jambs are adjustable and the door is already hinged. Don't forget your level!
There's a ton of step by step vids on YouTube if you wanna go with the salvage. It is super rewarding after you get it done. I milled and hung all the doors and trim in my house
I love that trim. If I could afford it i'd remove all the trim from my house and do Victorian style trim.
This is my apartment, 1892
I do this type of work as well as windows a lot. Double hung weighted or taped and leaded glass.
This one had pictures of the inside so it had to go back original, early 1900s. Reclaimed wood from an old oak barn, and they painted it white...
@Deleted User I dig that look, but can I ask why everything is so square?
@RevStench what are those serrations on the side of that chisel what are those for
@Deleted User it's for cutting, like a knife. I cut a few cut nails with it today. Worked great. Holds an edge pretty well.
Damn. Mean chisel! Lowe's Kobalt tools are pretty good I've got a few of them
Yeah the few I have hold up pretty well. I can't recommend their lineman pliers, stick with Kline, which I'm sure you know better than I do.
Yeah blown up quite a few pairs
@RevStench#3208 nice trim! Square - basically what my wife wanted when she found all those doors.
That square hardware is Emtek, pretty good stuff we spent a mint on
@CJames - TN#6244 oh right on. Now you need one of these.
Hahaha that's awesome
This guy tells me he does stained glass, shows me this...
Little bullshit window decoration. He did sell it to this lady for $375.
So I showed him my leaded glass,
The bottom sash on the double hung was broken out, and I matched the rest damn near perfectly.
I could do a video tutorial one day to show you guys some old school techniques.
It was incredibly hard to find glass.
Working on making 270 feet of dentil block today.
@RevStench#3208 that is beautiful work brother
@Deleted User thanks bro, I've only been doing stained glass for about 2 and a half years. It took me the better part of a year to get good at it. But one day it clicked, after probably a thousand hours haha, and I fight for every window job I can get now.
The real hard part is finding glass or finding someone talented enough to make the colored glass. Cutting glass is the easiest part. I wish I had the time and space to teach myself how blow glass.
need some advice. I have a poured concrete porch and steps. I want to add wooden railing. Would I be better served to set my 4x4 in quickcrete or side mount them with concrete anchors and burying the bottom of the posts.
You don't want to bury wood in the ground, it sucks up water and rots. Bury them in concrete.
Yep or you can use galvanized base plates with wedge anchors if the posts can sit on the concrete
I'll be honest I'm struggling to design the porch. It's an awkward split level. If I just put up railing it's going to look hokey. I also need to incorporate a flower bed or retaining wall on both sides. They left us with a slope of large gravel.
Do you have roughly a 6'x6' porch, with about 4 or 5 steps?
And that slope is just off one edge of your home and you need to tie all together? Is the other side just grass all the way to the house?
I'm trying to visualize what the front of your home looks like. The land lay out.
I don't have a newer pic but there are not more shrubs. From the drive way there are 3 steps to the first 3x3 landing then turns to house 3 more steps to a 6x6 slab. On the left going up there is a 2 tier flower bed. To the right is the gravel slope.
You can't tell from the pic but the slope on the right erodes onto the steps. I've planted monkey grass which helps
Oh ok, you should look into iron hand rails, there's a lot of styles and you can even get custom made ones if you're feeling fancy. But iron will blend in more because they are skinny.
It's weird there's a gravel slope on the right.
If you made the hand rails out of wood I get what you mean it would look hokey. I'll have to think about that. I don't build a lot of things like this regularly so I need to brainstorm.
I agree with the fabricated iron. And my earlier comment about base plates only really works if the posts are used in framing something up. Doesn't work so well just for handrails
@Placidseven - MO bro I haven't forgotten about you, I've been talking with some others guys who build decks for a living, trying to get you some sort of classy game plan.
The flower beds on the left, are they like wooden retaining wall. Railroad ties?
Sorry I use the word like a lot, I'm a valley girl!! Haha
Please excuse my nigger teir landscaping
So I was thinking of doing something similar on the other side but redoing the existing flower beds with 2×8 and 4x4 cedar
You forgot the pyramids, bruh. To be nigger tier you have to have pyramids. They wuz kangz
Epic fail at cultural appropriation
Lol. Couldn't resist the temptation on that one.
and I know it would increase my cost but I was thinking about using concrete form tube and these post bases to make it easier to replace the posts when needed. Instead of having to dig out the concrete.
@Placidseven - MO I like that flower bed. So you're thinking of doing that flower bed on both sides? That would look really nice.
Do you have to bust some concrete on the driveway to set that post against the house?
I know you're not pulling a permit but you need to check code for railing in your state so if you sell your home you won't have to replace it. In KY rail height is 36in and handrails are 34in, measuring from the nose of the tread.
Sorry I'm scatter brained today, had to work in rain on scaffolding 60ft up, I'm not very happy today haha.
And sorry I ask so many questions, I love this stuff.
@Deleted User suggested something like that anchor for concrete, I totally agree if you plan on living in that house that long. Haha
They say that pressure treated lumber can last for 40 years buried.
@RevStench i don't mind the questions. I feel guilty for monopolizing the chat.
Yeah, I'm going to do the flower bed on both sides. I'm not sure if I'll have to bust concrete or not. Not 100% sure what's under that flower bed already. That may be the bigger job. Tbh I may reuse the existing bottom rows and just replace the rest of railroad ties with the cedar boards.
You could get some cedar 1x and do a veneer, dress up the old. If it's solid and not rotted out that could be an option.
It surprisingly is solid
I like that idea
You could get fancy and do a dovetail joint to go around the corner, it would look good and you wouldn't have a failure point because of a nail or bolt.
Check out this chart, just throwing out ideas haha
Get a little Japanese with your carpentry haha.
I do need to get some better blades and saws. What i have is only good for rough cuts. I can't even get a decent miter on trim pieces.
Haha I feel you man, if you don't use those tools a lot they turn into expensive paper weights.
Good luck on your project, are you going to start it soon?
I'm probably going to have to spend a couple months accumulating the martial. Getting ready to insulate and frame the basement.
Need any advice framing that's where I started in carpentry.
Actually now that you mention it. So I left the header in place for one of the walls and removed the footer (It was dry rot) so I'm replacing it with pressure treated wood. I've got my chalk line. But how do I ensure my footer is square with the header before I anchor it to the floor? I know the correct way is to build the frame on the ground and then lift into place.
Not sure I'm visualizing what you're doing correctly but usually I anchor rim joists to the wall the build the frame and use temp supports until I set footers and posts. Use levels to plumb down to where anchors should sit. Square up by using the 345 method of measuring corner to corner
@Placidseven - MO there's this thing called a plumb bob, basically a weight on a string. Attach to the header. And it will show you where you need to put the footer.
Level the studs. And you'll be good
Ok sorry for the short answer, busy at work doing some African engineering.
The plumb bob is the best tool for setting rafters, finding a level point and other things. It's an old way of levelling walls.
Tack a nail or put a screw in the side of the header wrap the string around the nail tight against the board, the plumb bob will attached to the end of the string, the plumb bob has a point on the bottom and will show you the outside of the footer. Run a string line or put a mark on the floor and that will line you up.
I want to go over how to use a speed/hand square but the best way for me to explain it is by talking rafters. Give me a few days and I'll get on it, I'll have to write a book.
Now thats a lesson i need! A speed sq cunfuses the hell out of me. Never had a proper lesson on one
Hell dude theyre fine
Better than mine!
haha thanks man
How hard would it be to make a bed frame for a queen size Ben?!?
not to hard. depends on what you want. I love those "floating" bed frames, and they are cake to make, and you could add storage in the box(frame).
I'll have to look up a guide
Floating frames look sweet
And you can be sloppy because no one will ever see hahaa. No shame bro
Haha I got a lot of stuff to learn
I'm a home owner now and my trailer needs some work,
This would be a nice project because if you fuck up a little, like I said no one will see it. And you can learn a lot.
Would a drill and a circular saw be good?
You can do anything with a circular saw.
It might not always be the easy way but you can do it
Okay good tyvm!
I pretty much have access to anything carpentry related. So if you need a little help with cuts, I might be able to show you how to make the cut in pictures. or a video
If I could buy any three carpentry tools to start my own home workshop for basic home repair and construction of simple wood objects like chairs, tables, birdhouses, etc, what would you recommend I purchase? Assume I have half of a garage to work with.
Probably a radial saw or a compound miter saw. A planer and a router table.
I feel like you could do any drilling with a hand held drill.
Chairs and tables would need legs or spindles, if you're turning them yourself you'd need a lathe or buy premade ones.
@Envian or @Jhawk nc might be able to give some good advice here. I believe they have hobby shops.
Ok I had to see what other guys out there recommended, and the router and planer is a must because almost everything is going to start with an even flat surface.
I saw one guy recommend a band saw but I feel like you could use a crosscut or circular saw. Now I'm thinking about it a table saw would be good because you can do some joinery on it, tenons and box joints, even the tails for dovetail joints. You can rip even parallel edges. It'll give you a good straight cut you might not be able to get with a circular saw.
If you're looking at making bedframes and things you should get a Pinterest. You can find a design you like and it will usually have all the measurements @Whitelash
@Whitelash Careful on the circ saw. Maybe check out some videos on operating if you're not familiar. They're simple to use but can fuck you up if the blade gets pinched and kicks out on you. I always hold my trigger arm out and perpendicular and in the direction of my cuts so you can put force behind the saw in case it wants to kick back. Also you can see what you're cutting being to the side of the saw
Thanks guys. It really means a lot. That guide is a great start into the historic window restoration world. We're working with a couple of other guys to set a standard on historic windows also, so it was nice writing it out.
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